Changes

As [[Anton Krotov]] says, Tajik people are very hospitable. There is almost no grocery shops from Kulob to Sarytash except a little bazaar in Khorog. This doesn't mean that you need to have backpack full of food. When you was picked up by locals they will feed you all the way. Please, do not refuse, let people from Pamirs show how they are hospitable.

== Traffic ==

Please be ready to wait for a days in some places. The number of cars is tended to zero on part from Kalaikhumb to Sarytash. From [[Kulob]] to [[Khorug]] up to 50 in a day in both directions, mostly heavy trucks and fullfilled taxi. From [[Khorug]] to [[Murgab]] up to 25 in a day in both directions. From [[Murgab]] to SaryTash up to 5 cars in a day. There is a truck with gasoline from [[Murgab]] to Tajik border control in Sarytash direction and back 2-3 times in a week. Also there is 23 km of no mans land between Tajik and Kyrgyz control points. Be ready to walk this distance through mountain pass Kyzylart 4200 meters altitude. Best option to start hitchhiking through Pamir track is to start from Osh, then move to Sarytash and then move to [[Murgab]]. This direction gives advantage of new transit cars (buses, trucks, tractors etc.) going from China to Tajikistan. There could be up to 50 transit cars in a day in Sarytash>>>Murgab direction.