Changes

Hitch-hiking in Myanmar is not that difficult, if you know how to do it. First of all, forget about the European way raising your thumb. As in almost all non-Western countries, raising your thumb will not be understood as anything but an odd gesture. Try other ways using body language for instance by waving at the drivers and signaling signalling them to stop, or by waving and pointing in the direction you're going. You need to communicate with the driver in the few seconds you have while he sees you. Once you learn this, you will get rides in no time.

* This is usually not the case, but some people might be afraid about getting in trouble with the govermentgovernment, when they pick you up. I does not mean that the Burmese people are afraid of getting in contact with foreigners, but some will tell you this reason if you ask them about difficulties with hitchhiking.* Many pick-up trucks are considered to be short-distance bussesbuses. Of course they will be delighted to pick you up, but make sure about the payment first.

Myanmar hitchhiking is like heaven and hell. Here comes the heaven. Between Mandalay and Yangon is a brand new expressway express-way since December 2010. They put much effort in this project. It was the third time after the fifties and the seventies, that they tried to build this road and finally it worked with Chinese support. Now they did it and it is one of the the greatest an easiest roads you can hitchhike. It is not really a challenge, good for beginners and a nice trip. Alot A lot of cars drive the whole route between the two bigest biggest cities, so you can jump on and off where ever you want. There is no confusion about what you do, because there are no taxis on this highway, only express busses buses in the night so the understand quickly, that you are looking for a ride in a car on the highway. Also the feeling is very special. It might be like Germany in the early fifties. You have a very new, big and fast road, but there are almost no cars on it. Maybe 10 cars per hour, which is not much for a toll road (the drivers pay about USD 7$ from Mandalay to Yangon). At the moment there are still people around the highway planting trees, or fixing some road borders and sometimes you might see some kids which are flying a kite in the middle of the road. Awesome. This would never be possible on the crammed european European highways.

* There are no ATMs in Myanmar. The money you have in your pocket is all you will own. You will not be able to use credit cards, traveller's checks, or other things that don't look like Dollars, Kyat, or Bhat. The lonely planet will tell you about some hotels that accept Visa, but this information (like 50% of this book) is not valid anymore any more (September 2011). There are rumors rumours about one travel agency in Yangon that might accept Vise Visa cards, but that has nothing to mean.

* In general you should know that alot a lot of informations about travelling in Myanmar are wrong, because things are changing so fast. This adresses addresses the USD 300$ you have to show at the airport (wrong!), the USD 10$ airport tax (included in AirAsia tickets since August 2011), the interview in the visa process (getting a visa in Bangkok is straightforward, fast and ver very easy) and many other informations you will find. As a tourist they will not make your life difficult with absurd rules.

* If you take much money ith with you, be relaxed. Myanmar is a pretty safe country. Allthoug Although every tourist is carrying alot a lot of money around with them, only few people get ripped of. It might be because the people are so nice (see below "people") or because you will not be allowed to enter assumed dangerous areas (see below "travel restrictions").

* Generally the people won't cheat you. Cheating is a new thing to them, but this is changing as well, especially when it comes to changing money in the street. NEVER DO IT! Not even if it's sundaySunday, the banks are closed and you need money for the hostel. Find another solution, because the guys in the street are only there to cheat you. They won't change your money!

* Cars and busses buses are very old (because of the embargo), stinky and slow. The traffic is not so much, but in the cities the air might be more polluted as in Bangkok during the rush hours. Sometimes you find yourself while hitchhiking beside the street surrounded by a black smoke cloud, or you sit in the back of a truck and it is a bit annoying to breath the delicious exhaust fumes that pass through you.

'''UPD Update February 2013''': Still same price range of the 'licensed hotels', BUT! In rural areas the locals are usually so confused and surprised to see you that they obviously don't care about any license and check you into any guesthouse guest-house for a local price (2000 kyats), although they will try to show you the fancier rooms first. They also get freaked out when you try to camp on the beach or outside of the village.

Myanmar is maybe (besides Singapore) one of the most expensive countries in South East Asia. A $USD 10 budget per day is very tight (guesthouses guest-houses usually take $USD 6-$8 per night for the cheapest rooms), with $USD 15 you can get around easily and with $USD 20 you don't need to worry about money. All the prices you will find on the internet, or in guidebooks are not valid any more. Everything is much more expensive (40% more for food, +$USD 2-$4 for accommodation in September 2011). Also the exchange rate is changing enormously. In 2010 you could get for $USD 1 around 1000 Kyat. In August-September 2011 it was between 650-750 Kyat for $USD 1. The rate is changing constantly and can vary in from 50 to 100 Kyat within 24 hours. Be careful with money exchange, don't make a deal with people that offer you exchange on the street. In Yangon the gem market is a good place with fair and stable exchange rates.

You will need Dollars for accommodation and Kyat for the street. So take with you both currencies and don't exchange everything (otherwise you will become a real money trader, without making profit, but loosing a lot). Also most of the people will not accept your dollars if there is something written on, if they have a wrinkle, or let's say if they don't look brand new (I didn't get this). If you pay with Kyat in the guesthouse guest-house it will become very expensive. Also the local prices for accommodation are about $USD 3 (2000 Kyat), but foreigners are only allowed to stay in guesthouses guest-houses that have permission and those are often much more expensive.

In Myanmar are a lot of black zones where nobody (even the locals) is allowed to go, then there are some areas where you need a special permission, and the rest of the country. It is not possible to enter these areas by accident. There are control points, often at bridges and if you don't have permission, they will send you back. The center centre of the country is free to move around. At the border states are a lot of conflicts (north, southeast south-east and west are rebels, there is some oil and gem production and in the east [Shan state] they also grow a lot of heroin for export to India).

It is very obvious that the goverment government is keeping track about your travels. Every guesthouse guest-house has to report which guests they had and even if you stay in a small village you need to register with the local police guy. It is almost impossible to stay with locals, because they need a permissionpermit. A few years ago it might have been allowed to stay one night in a monastery, but also that is not possible anymore any more since the protests in Yangon in 2008. Some locals say that there are many new (unclear) rules and nobody wants to get in trouble. Be careful that you don't push people to help you and put them in danger. Also don't be surprised if you stay during the day with some monks somewhere and the local police officer is coming around to ask some question. As the locals told me, it is just their job nothing important, they have to report what are you doing, but in general there will be no problem, if you don't stay overnight.

The politics in Myanmar are changing like the exchange rate. Since the old general is retired (April 2011) the whole situation became a bit more "relaxed" (like the Burmese would say). Aung San Suu Kyi (she won the elections 1990 and called the tourist boycott) is released and in dialogue with the new government. Some say this is just propaganda. We don't know. You will not come in contact with the government, only if some policemen want to shake your hand and say hello. Most of the locals are willed willing to share their thoughts about the political situation but often there is a language barrier so they just can express that they think their government is bad.