Difference between revisions of "Svaneti"
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| − | '''Svaneti''' is a region in the north of [[Georgia]] | + | '''Svaneti''' is a region in the north of [[Georgia]], in the Caucasus mountains near the border with [[Russia]]. |
| − | Hitching through Svaneti is an ordeal! Start early | + | Hitching through Svaneti is an ordeal! Start early; 0500 is a good time. Though you'll probably move more quickly, ensure that you have two days to get anywhere, as the roads are in poor condition and there is little traffic. There are two ways to get into Svaneti, the western approach beginning in [[Zugdidi]] and the eastern approach most likely beginning in [[Kutaisi]]. The western approach into the higher elevations of Svaneti is the more traveled by cars. It is supposedly the better cared-for road (even though you wouldn't believe it when you ride on it). |
| − | The two most visited cities in Svaneti are [[Mestia]] and [[Ushguli]]. Because more traffic climbs up from the west, [[Mestia]] will be reached first. Then another climb even higher into the mountains will take you to [[Ushguli]], the highest permanent | + | The two most visited cities in Svaneti are [[Mestia]] and [[Ushguli]]. Because more traffic climbs up from the west, [[Mestia]] will be reached first. Then another climb even higher into the mountains will take you to [[Ushguli]], called the highest permanent settlement in [[Europe]]. |
== The Western Approach == | == The Western Approach == | ||
| − | This road travels through [[Zugdidi]], [[Jvari]], [[Khaishi]], [[Dizi]], and a slew of small villages before you get to the administrative capital of Upper Svaneti region | + | This road travels through [[Zugdidi]], [[Jvari]], [[Khaishi]], [[Dizi]], and a slew of small villages before you get to the administrative capital of Upper Svaneti region, [[Mestia]]. |
| − | + | Most traffic out of Zugdidi is only going as far as Jvari. From there, there are very few private cars onward, and you can wait hours without seeing anything but a ''marshrutka''. Villages are mainly kept supplied by these ''marshrutkas'', so there is little truck traffic. | |
| − | + | The road between [[Zugdidi]] and [[Khaishi]] is mostly paved with numerous rough sections. The road north of [[Khaishi]] is much more rough with some sections still being constructed. | |
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| − | The road between [[Zugdidi]] and [[Khaishi]] is mostly paved with numerous rough sections. The road north of [[Khaishi]] is much more rough with some sections still being constructed | ||
== The Eastern Approach == | == The Eastern Approach == | ||
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There are also several mountain passes on this approach. These include Zagaro Pass and Ughviri Pass (1700 meters). Both can be snowed in late into the season so check conditions or be prepared to walk. According to locals there are no mashrudtkas taking the eastern approach up into Svaneti. | There are also several mountain passes on this approach. These include Zagaro Pass and Ughviri Pass (1700 meters). Both can be snowed in late into the season so check conditions or be prepared to walk. According to locals there are no mashrudtkas taking the eastern approach up into Svaneti. | ||
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| + | == Sleeping == | ||
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| + | Unlike the rest of Georgia, where locals will happily let your sleep in their homes for free if you just ask, Svaneti is highly commercialized and prices for homestays are higher than even in the capital (15-20 lari/night). Camping is possible anywhere outside villages, but in the winter you should camp only with special gear for cold weather. | ||
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{{IsIn|Georgia (country)}} | {{IsIn|Georgia (country)}} | ||
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[[Category:Georgia]] | [[Category:Georgia]] | ||
Revision as of 18:43, 22 October 2010
Svaneti is a region in the north of Georgia, in the Caucasus mountains near the border with Russia.
Hitching through Svaneti is an ordeal! Start early; 0500 is a good time. Though you'll probably move more quickly, ensure that you have two days to get anywhere, as the roads are in poor condition and there is little traffic. There are two ways to get into Svaneti, the western approach beginning in Zugdidi and the eastern approach most likely beginning in Kutaisi. The western approach into the higher elevations of Svaneti is the more traveled by cars. It is supposedly the better cared-for road (even though you wouldn't believe it when you ride on it).
The two most visited cities in Svaneti are Mestia and Ushguli. Because more traffic climbs up from the west, Mestia will be reached first. Then another climb even higher into the mountains will take you to Ushguli, called the highest permanent settlement in Europe.
The Western Approach
This road travels through Zugdidi, Jvari, Khaishi, Dizi, and a slew of small villages before you get to the administrative capital of Upper Svaneti region, Mestia.
Most traffic out of Zugdidi is only going as far as Jvari. From there, there are very few private cars onward, and you can wait hours without seeing anything but a marshrutka. Villages are mainly kept supplied by these marshrutkas, so there is little truck traffic.
The road between Zugdidi and Khaishi is mostly paved with numerous rough sections. The road north of Khaishi is much more rough with some sections still being constructed.
The Eastern Approach
There are several eastern approaches to the Svaneti road. There is a road from the south that originates in Kutaisi and then travels through Tskaltubo and Tsageri. Another road starts in Kutaisi, travels through Lajanurhesi, and then joins with the road going on to Lentekhi. The third approach is from the Racha region, east of Svaneti. It travels through Ambrolauri, onto Lajanurhesi and then up to Lentekhi. The Svaneti road then travels through the cities of Lentekhi, Ushguli, Jpari, Zhabeshi, etc.
There are also several mountain passes on this approach. These include Zagaro Pass and Ughviri Pass (1700 meters). Both can be snowed in late into the season so check conditions or be prepared to walk. According to locals there are no mashrudtkas taking the eastern approach up into Svaneti.
Sleeping
Unlike the rest of Georgia, where locals will happily let your sleep in their homes for free if you just ask, Svaneti is highly commercialized and prices for homestays are higher than even in the capital (15-20 lari/night). Camping is possible anywhere outside villages, but in the winter you should camp only with special gear for cold weather.
