The Outer Hebrides

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The Outer Hebrides are isles located off the West coast of Scotland and reachable by CalMac ferries (and possibly boat hitching?)

The major islands are, from north to south:

  1. Lewis
  2. Harris
  3. North Uist
  4. Benbecula
  5. South Uist
  6. Eriskay
  7. Barra

Lewis and Harris are in fact one large island. Benbecula, North Uist, South Uist and Eriskay are interconnected by causeways. If you move from island to island by ferry, it's a good idea to ask people on the ferry whether they are going in your direction (especially since sometimes the ferry terminal is quite far from the main road and might be hard to hitch out of). It is possible to hitchhike the entire stretch, north to south (plus take the ferries where needed) in a long day. You can grab a ferry schedule at any CalMac office.

Once you're on the main road, things should be easier - though there aren't many cars (or maybe due to this reason), waiting times are low. In the summer, many visitors are tourists from Scotland and England who will stop for you as much as locals will.

Camping

Camping is allowed (like almost anywhere in Scotland) and very easy. Whenever in doubt, ask a few locals until someone points out a nice place (just make sure they understand that you're looking for a wildcamping spot, not a campsite).

Stornoway is the largest town on the Isle of Lewis (accesible by ferry from Ullapool). It's possible to camp in the castle grounds - some parts are more exposed (and some function as golf courts), but you can camp among the trees and away from the road. There are public toilets near the tourist information office (only open at certain times, and might be locked even during the supposed opening times), and (more discreet) toilets and showers nearby, right by the water (24/7). There's an entrance code, but if you ask someone from the yachts nicely they might give it to you. The facilities are mainly for yacht crews, so keep them clean for them and for us ;)

Tarbert is the largest town on the Isle of Harris (accesible by ferry from the Isle of Skye). A great camping spot is on Main Street - just above the tourist information center and by the post office. It's right on the street but no one cares (welcome to Scotland). There are toilets by the information center (not 24/7 though).

Castlebay is the largest village on Barra. There's a perfect camping spot (with room for many tents!) by the ocean - if you pass the ferry terminal on your left, you'll see the grass by the shore. Winds can be strong all year, so make sure your tent is stable!