Afghanistan

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Flag of Afghanistan Afghanistan
Information
Language: Dari (Persian) and Pashto
Capital: Kabul
Population: 28,150,000
Currency: Afghani (AFN)
Hitchability: from Senseless.png (senseless) to Average.png (average)
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<map lat='34.05' lng='67.1' zoom='5' view='0' height='300' country='Afghanistan' />

Afghanistan is a country in Asia. The capital is Kabul. It has borders to Iran, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, China and Pakistan. Part of the Silk road and formerly part of the so-called Hippie trail, it has since been invaded by the Soviets, ruled by the Taliban and attacked by the United States.

Few people speak English or Russian, and there is an anti-Western feeling throughout the country, but the hospitality to individual travelers is immense.

Hitchhiking culture

Afghanistan has no tradition of hitchhiking for free. Those who flag down cars usually pay something for the transportation. Some Afghans might let you hitch a ride out of curiosity, but even if the hitchhiker makes it clear at the beginning of the ride that he cannot pay, the driver may still insist on payment when dropping the hitchhiker off. In some regions resp. seasons, hitching on trucks is the only way to travel. Most NGOs are forbidden to pick up hitchhikers, more specifically UN-based of large humanitarian organizations (nonetheless, in practice it's mainly NGOs who pick hitchhikers up). If you choose to hitchhike, be prepared to be questioned by the police over and over again. Low literacy rates mean that using a sign is not necessary.

Afghanistan has the lower rate of cars per inhabitant in the world. Traveling by public transport or staying in hotels is rather expensive compared to Central Asia.

Maps

Cities

  • Kabul
  • Herat
  • Kandahar
  • Mazar-e Sharif
  • Jalalabad
  • Ghazni
  • Kunduz

Public Transport

Collective taxis with fixed fares travel between cities once they are filled with passengers. Traveling with a backpack there means extra cost, but that's where you can bargain. There are also minibuses, a bit cheaper but much more crowded.

Safety

It's probably quite an unsafe country to travel to let alone to hitchhike even though Muslim hospitality might make up for that. Be aware that land mines are widespread in the country. Known landfields are marked with cobblestones painted red (towards the field) and white (safer zone). They are identified MF (Mine Field) and LM (Land Mines). Another concern is around the opium traffic route - through the Panj river.

In 2006, a Russian hitchhiker traveling in Afghanistan went missing. For more information, read here. However, the feeling in the Russian community is that this hitchhiker perished while trying to ford a river or negotiate a cliff, and not from violence.

Women

Woman have hitchhiked in Afghanistan in the company of one or more male hitchhikers. It goes without saying that women are advised to cover as much hair and skin as possible when traveling in Afghanistan. This is not only a matter of safety, but of respect as well. Consider a salwar kameez dress with proper headwear. Afghan women do not chat up men in public, or make eye contact with them, or smile to them. Keep in mind that your behaviour and body language might send strong messages to men. Avoid all physical contact in public. It is generally advised to travel with a male companion.

Women traveling alone in group taxis generally have to pay for two seats at the front rather than be allowed to sit next to a man.

Border Crossing

Hitchhikers have crossed to Afghanistan:

  • from Iran via Eslam Qal`eh. Advice given by locals is to reach Kabul using the ring road via Kandahar in the South since it is a main road used by international peace keeping forces.
  • from Pakistan, via Torkham. The trip from Peshawar to Kabul takes about 7 hours.You must obtain a free permit the morning of the departure and a have a bodyguard accompanying you to the border. There is also a checkpoint via Chaman.
  • from Tajikistan, via Panji Poyon.
  • from Turkmenistan
  • Some people allegedly tried to cross from Uzbekistan, via Termez on the Afghanistan–Uzbekistan Friendship Bridge, but were refused, as only NGOs are allowed to cross there (no tourists).

Eating & Drinking

Accommodation & Sleeping

While hotels in Kabul can be extremely expensive, attempting to camp in the street will attact local people, who will then insist you stay in their homes.

Other Useful Info

English News Websites

wikipedia:Afghanistan wikitravel:Afghanistan