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June 16, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 40

Hello everybody and welcome to the 46th edition of our popular Travel Photography Competition. This week we are reviewing photos published on our Facebook page between 24th and 31st May.

Sit comfortably and enjoy the beautiful photos sent by our contributing photographers from around the world!

The first winner this week was taken from Cerro San Cristóbal hill, overlooking Santiago, Chile. The hill rises 880 m above sea level and about 300 m above the rest of the Chilean capital. Its summit can be reached on foot, by car, by the Funicular of Santiago or by the Santiago Cable Car.

Santiago, which is located in the country’s central valley, is the biggest city in Chile with a population of nearly 5.5 million people. It was founded in 1541 and it’s been the capital city since the colonial period. The architecture of the city showcases fine examples of 19th century Neoclassical, Art Deco and Neo-Gothic styles.

The Captured Moments - Cerro San Cristóbal, Santiago, Chile

This wonderful panorama, showing how densely the city is populated, was sent by The Captured Moments. Congratulations!

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The second winner in this week’s competition shows a stunning double rainbow and was taken on Kouri Island, Okinawa, Japan.

Okinawa is the southernmost prefecture of Japan and it consists of hundreds of the islands in a chain over 1,000 km long.

Dan Give-On - Double Rainbow on Kouri Island, Okinawa, Japan

This stunning photograph was sent by Dan Give-On.

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And the last shot in this week’s selection is also a rainbow photo, but this one was taken at Skógarfoss waterfall in Iceland.

Pétur Gunn who sent us this wonderful shot says: “Skógafoss is one of the biggest waterfalls in the country with a width of 25 metres (82 feet) and a drop of 60 m (200 ft). Due to the amount of spray the waterfall consistently produces, a single or double rainbow is normally visible on sunny days. According to legend, the first Viking settler in the area, Þrasi Þórólfsson, buried a treasure in a cave behind the waterfall. The legend continues that locals found the chest years later, but were only able to grasp the ring on the side of the chest before it disappeared again. The ring was allegedly given to the local church. The old church door ring is now in a museum, though whether it gives any credence to the folklore is debatable.”

Pétur Gunn Photography - Skógarfoss, Iceland

If you like Pétur’s photo, subscribe to his Facebook page or visit his Flickr photostream.

_________________________________

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

Week 45 Week 40
Travel Photography Competition
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week 40

Filed under: *Photos*, Chile, Iceland, Japan Tagged: Chile, competition, Iceland, Japan, photography, rainbow, Santiago, travel, travel photography, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 16, 2013 17:04

June 15, 2013

Fabzgy's Life

A beauty that surprises

I had no idea where I was going when I applied for a scholarship to participate in a radio seminar taking place in Andalusia this month. I was still in Rio de Janeiro when I actually applied for it.
Yesterday I arrived in Seville which immediately rose to the top five cities I have visited so far.
rio_hacia_americasIn this city the voyages of  Christopher Columbus have been planed and the colonial times brought a lot of wealth to this town which in the old time marked the end of the navigable part of the Guadalquivir River.
It is a magnificent place to stroll around and get lost in its large network of narrow alleys. Whenever you get lost you can sit down in a little bar, have a beer or wine with some tapas.

Off-topic: Today a friend sent me a link to a Video with an English presentation of the GartenCoop. So if you wonder what the fuck I spent big parts of my four years on – have a look!

by Fabzgy at June 15, 2013 11:48

June 13, 2013

Liften Werkt!

koffiehuis_istanbul

Het was januari en nog erg donker zo vroeg op de ochtend. En donker was het nog altijd toen ik door de kennis anderhalf uur later gedropt werd bij een vluchtstrook na Apeldoorn. Koud was het ook. S-t-e-r-v-e-n-s-k-o-u-d. En er was bovendien een sneeuwstorm op komst. De dag dat ik naar Istanbul ging liften begon […]

by robino at June 13, 2013 17:16

kimmieslife

Elephants with no money


Hitchhiking into a national park is probably one of the most impossible things to do, so I settled with the bus, which runs once a day, the time unspecified.  The few white people I saw at the bus station were, as I correctly predicted, also heading to Mole.  We waited all day for the bus and when it finally set off it had broken down within ten minutes of travel.  We set off again once fixed but had to make a short stop because the driver then wanted to do his prayers.  Three words: typical African transport!

Naughty baboon playing in the hotel grounds


We finally arrived in the park at around midnight.  As I was coming to the very end of my supply of money, I had to look for the cheapest option available.  To pitch a tent in the campground was almost the same price as taking a bed in the dormitory.  Except the dormitory wasn’t pitch black and waterlogged. I struck lucky as the Finnish girls I had met on the bus offered me a place on their hotel room floor.  To get the ‘included’ breakfast in the mornings, I tried my hardest to confuse the hell out of the waiters and succeeded mostly due to their kindness in turning a blind eye to my changing room number each day.


I used the very last of my money on a safari walk, where we saw plenty of monkeys, antelope, warthogs, and birds.  A group of people collected together to take a jeep safari, which would reach further out into the park and improve the chances of spotting elephants, and after hearing my situation they let me jump in on their jeep tour.



Within ten minutes of driving we were climbing off the top of the jeep and following a huge male elephant through the trees.  Compared to seeing an elephant in a zoo this was something special.  It was an incredible feeling to see this wonderful, giant creature pushing its path through the dense greenery and being completely at peace in its natural home.

Hitching into the park may have not been possible but hitching out was.  A military car was making its monthly food-supply trip from Tamale to its isolated destination in the north-western region of the country and had to pass through Mole.  This proved to be very lucky for me, as when we reached their destination they used their superior attitude to easily convince the driver of a public minibus to take me to the border town for free.

I say for free, but I ended up working for the cost of my travel.  The young woman sat next to me got tired of her baby falling asleep in an uncomfortable position, so she just handed him to me.  No words were exchanged. Typical Africa; someone has handed you a baby so just deal with it.  Five hours later I handed him back to her; we had reached the woman’s final destination.

I tried to catch some sleep at the border town, where I had a little trouble but was taught a very valuable lesson by a very wise man.  I don’t want to go into details here because both the situation and the resulting lesson feel very personal; but I will tell you that, sometimes, a plain old human being can make it very easy to believe in angels.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at June 13, 2013 18:00

June 12, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Emmanuel Marshal - Jerry Cans - camping near Tin Can Bay, Queensland, Australia

In this week’s guest post… we find ourselves back in Oz as we join Emmanuel and Nia revisiting an old friend and his dog. So sit back and relax as we drop in on a man on the edge, observe Jerry cans discarded for personal safety and empathise with the fear that stems from the unpredictable. 

Emmanuel Marshal - Jerry Cans - camping near Tin Can Bay, Queensland, Australia

It’s winter (southern hemisphere) of 2009. Nia (now my wife, then my common law partner in crime) and I are camping on a piece of land near Tin Can Bay, Queensland.

Brad invited us to stay when he met us two weeks earlier, camped on a hilltop near a city water tank. His dog made friends with Rosie, our labrador, and he told us we were welcome to stay on a block of vacant rural land he owned outside town. We took him up on it happily. The block is quiet and wooded, and Brad drops in once in a while to hang out by the fire and shoot the shit. We smoke J’s, drink, and generally have a few laughs.

Nia and I have made ourselves pretty comfy, set up a decent kitchen tent, and we’re visiting the nearby beaches when the weather is good.

Over the previous week, Brad’s visits have become regular nightly drinking binges, and his character is changing. Its pretty clear now, that he is an alcoholic. He stays up awkwardly late, and when he’s really pissed, he becomes petulant and mildly aggressive. He complains about his wife, curses his neighbors, bad mouths his parents. His dog is the only character in his life he isn’t trying to blame for how miserable he is.

The day before we decide to leave Brad’s place, I spend the worst night not sleeping I have ever had.

Brad arrives around 9 pm with a slab of beer and a couple of bottles of rum. He gets tanked, and one of his mates shows up, totally off his tits, and the pair of them spend the next four hours arguing about which of them has the sadder existence. Around 1am Brad is deep into a morbid soliloquy about how much he hates his brother, who he claims is an arsonist. He is having conversations with himself, speaking both for himself and his brother, and grappling with his brother’s imaginary throat, shouting at him to “grow up” and “be a man”. Nia goes to bed and I eventually persuade Brad to go to his tent and sleep (by this time he has pitched a tent of his own on the other side of the block, because his wife had thrown him out of the house).

He staggers off towards his tent, but as he goes he turns for a moment and stares deep into the fire and snarls, in his brothers gutteral voice, “I should just burn it all… this forest, the tent, your van, Rosie… everything…”

I wait in the darkness by the back of our van for about half an hour, long enough for Brad to pass out, then I tell Nia I am going to have a piss, and sneak through the woods to Brad’s tent. I know he keeps two full Jerry cans of fuel for his truck beside his tent. I fumble in the dark, find the fuel cans, and quietly take them to the edge of the creek gully. I throw each fuel can as far into the gully as I can, and listen to them splash into the dark water. I make my way back to our van, pick up my axe, and sit on the tailgate of the van. I am sweating. I have no feeling in my fingers from carrying the weight of the fuel cans.

Some time later I look at my watch. It is 3.46 am. I am still sweating.

Nia mumbles, “When are you coming to snuggle?”

“Soon”, I say.

The forest is very quiet. I can hear Brad snoring on the other side of the block. I stretch my fingers and change my grip on the axe handle.

At first light I start breaking camp. Nia and I are pretty efficient from months on the road, and we have everything almost packed up by 9.30 am when Brad stumbles over to our camp.

“You guys leaving?”, he asks, looking genuinely surprised.

“Yeah, we are” I say.

“Is something wrong?”

I stop what I’m doing and look Brad straight in the eye.

“You said some things last night that weren’t right”, I say.

Brad stares at me, his brow furrowed, the picture of incredulity, but I can see a tiny crease of a sneer in the corners of his eyes.

“What’d I say?” he asks innocently.

“Mate, if you can’t remember what you said last night, that should be a good enough reason for you”.

Nia and I finish packing while Brad rolls a joint, and smokes it.

I get in the van, and Nia gives Brad a hug, and we drive away. Rosie hangs out the window of the van, and Brad’s dog chases after her barking as if his heart is broken, and the next night we camped on the beach at Moore Park, I think.

written by: Emmanuel Marshall

Emmanuel Marshall began traveling in 2006, hitchhiking around Australia and South East Asia. Emmanuel’s mission is to live a nomadic life with one bag and thousands of friends.

visit his website at: rawsafari.com


Filed under: *Hitch-hiking experience*, Australia Tagged: Australia, backpacking, camping, contributions, guest post, travel, travelling, van

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 12, 2013 18:04

June 10, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

A dedo por la Península Ibérica: trip preparation

It hadn’t been easy to decide where to travel next. We had many different alternatives and two main trips in mind:

  • either go to Asia (Russia -> Mongolia -> China -> India -> Nepal -> Tibet -> Tajikistan -> Kyrgyzstan -> Uzbekistan -> Turkmenistan -> Kazakhstan)
  • or to South America (Argentina -> Chile -> Peru -> Bolivia -> Paraguay -> Uruguay).

Both of these routes would require a considerable amount of money and at least 6 months to complete, which means we would have to give up our teaching jobs in Barcelona.

We’ve been also considering finding a hotel job in Norway in order to get some quick and easy money to financially support the trip. We’ve managed to find a job which would start in September (haven’t decided if we’re going to accept the offer yet as we really love our Barcelona lives), which means we have the summer to travel somewhere close and then either come back to Barcelona or go to Norway.

Whatever will happen in September, we have decided that in three weeks time we will start our Balkan Peninsula by Thumb trip and go back to where we met in Macedonia nearly six years ago. If you’re interested in how we met, you can read about it from our two different points of view: from Jon’s perspective here and from Ania’s perspective here.

We will start our 2 month hitch-hiking trip in Rome and finish probably either in Hungary or in Vienna, with Ohrid in Macedonia being our highlight.

Sveti Jovan at Kaneo, Ohrid, Macedonia

This is our very rough itinerary:

.

It’s only a draft as we really haven’t thought about it yet but if you have been to any of the places on our route and consider it worth visiting or if you can think of any dos and don’ts, please give us you opinion in the comment box below. We would appreciate any first-hand comments and recommendations :)

written by: Ania

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: The Balkan Peninsula by Thumb 2013, _trips_ Tagged: backpacking, Balkans, hitch-hiking, hitchhiking, Italy, itinerary, Macedonia, travel, travelling, trip

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 10, 2013 19:38

June 09, 2013

kimmieslife

Dancing and bananas

I reached the capital city of Ivory Coast, Abidjan, the day before my 24th birthday.  Coincidentally, the sister Amy of my Couchsurfing host was to celebrate her toddlers 3rd birthday that night at a club
downtown.  Celebrating a kids birthday in a nightclub?  Yes.  I didn’t ask questions, except “what am I supposed to wear?”  After being dressed by the women in tight leggings and a one-shoulder sparkly shirt, I came to the conclusion that only black women can wear these clothes and look good.  I resembled something similar to a gypsy traveller from the British TV show ‘My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding’, except I didn’t have the fancy attitude to match.

The night was full of entertainment, provided mainly from the young women shaking their booties and the occasional man with the confidence to show off his body popping skills.  Young boys less than ten years old gathered outside the open aired club, their one chance to listen to a variety of loud, fast-paced music, and competed to find the best dancer between them.  They saw me watching and reverted back to their daytime shyness of giggling and waving at the sight of a white person.

Manitu, the man who owned the house I was staying in, was a professional singer widely known through Ivory Coast.  Although his English was very limited, he still managed to make the list of the funniest people I’ve ever known.  Cracking the top off a beer bottle top with his teeth and slyly pushing it back on, he then handed it to a woman asking her to open it.  On her attempt it opened too easily and spilled all over her front. She scowled angrily at him as he rolled around in fits of laughter.

Just after midnight, the group around me attempted to sing ‘happy birthday’ in English, but failed miserably, singing something like “happy baaaahaaa la laa, happy baaaahaa la daa...” at least the happy part was right!

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My impressions of Ivory Coast were mainly that it was much richer than the past few countries I had been in.  Compared to Liberia, Sierra Leone and Guinea, all of the roads I encountered were fully paved and one massively noticeable difference was the variety of food in the markets.  These may not sound like reasons a country is more prosperous, but they are in fact huge factors which affect the level of poverty people live with.  Roads ensure that business and jobs are accessible to everybody, a big benefit to those who live in rural areas, and therefore reducing the concentration of wealth in the cities and the difference across the country.  The variety of food reduces the probability of children or even adults of becoming sick from malnutrition.

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My time in Abidjan revolved around the four visits I made to the embassy of Ghana, all comprising of lies from the workers about visa laws changing and resulting in my stubborn arguments, the last one being hassle-free only because this was the time I collected my passport with the visa fixed firmly inside.  With not much time left to spend, I headed straight to Ghana the following day, a mix up in the transport meant I was sent straight to the capital Accra more than half way across the country.





Fati and her brother Mubarik hosted me, showing me around the city and entertaining me every day.  Our favourite spot was LA beach, were it seemed Fati had endless energy enough to jump up and down in the waves literally all day long!  We took a short trip one day to the Volta region and found some monkeys in the forest, then enticed them with fruit to come closer but kept ended up in a struggle of who could grip each banana the tightest.  Stubborn me always won, forcing the monkeys to squash the banana and lick it from my hand.





Fati even accompanied me to a town in the north of Ghana, Tamale, where her boyfriend invited us both to stay in his apartment.  A short stay there included a trip to the local market, where I was shouted at for taking photos of the produce and got stuck in a human traffic jam with a basket of dried fish shoved in my face for ten minutes.  From that moment on I can no longer eat fish.






I was now a few days away from using up the very last of my money.  What was eating me alive was the fact that I had come to Africa but still hadn’t seen any large mammals living in the wild.  The devastating civil wars in West Africa had caused poaching for financial gain; therefore where wildlife was once abundant it is now almost non-existent.  For that reason I decided my next destination would be Mole National Park, the largest national park in Ghana, where, despite my lack of money, I was determined to tick off one last objective for my trip in Africa.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at June 09, 2013 21:13

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 39

Hello everybody and welcome to the 45th edition of our popular Travel Photography Competition. It’s been nearly a year since we started our competition and every week we receive more and more stunning pictures which let us discover some really beautiful corners of this planet!

This week we are reviewing photos published on our Facebook page between 16th and 23rd May.

The first winner was taken at Figuera Borda, on western Ibiza, Spain. It’s a secluded gravel beach which is more than 10 metres long.

Ibiza is the third largest of the Balearic Islands, located nearly 80 km off the coast of Valencia. Although predominantly known for its night-life and electronic music scene, Ibiza has much to offer to those interested in culture, as it’s home to four UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the fields of Posidonia of Ses Salines Natural Park, the Phoenician settlement of Sa Caleta, the fortifications of the Ibiza City and the cemetery of Puig des Molins.

Vicent Ferrer - Figuera Borda, Ibiza, Spain

This lovely shot was sent by Vicent Ferrer from Ibiza.

_________________________________

The second winner in our competition was taken in Hensley Settlement, Cumberland Gap National Park, Kentucky, USA. Hensley Settlement is a living history museum, dating back to 1845, which contains 12 wooden houses, a one-room school house, and a blacksmith’s.

WiredNomads - Hensley Settlement, Cumberland Gap National Park, Kentucky, USA

This great picture was taken by WiredNomads. If you like their work, check out their fantastic website: wirednomads.com.

_________________________________

And the last winner this week comes from northern France and was taken in Wissant, a fishing port and farming village located 16 kilometres south-west of Calais.

Roland Botterman who took this photo said that “Wissant is a place (…) where you really can get an idea of how the defences of the German army were built in the second World War.I think B/W helps to create the right atmosphere.” What you can see in the picture is a concrete blockhouse built during the II World War as part of the defensive fortifications.

Roland Botterman - Wissant, northern France

If you like Roland’s work, visit his Flickr Photostream.

_________________________________

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: *Photos*, France, Spain, USA Tagged: competition, France, Ibiza, photography, Spain, travel, travel photography, travelling, USA

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 09, 2013 14:52

June 05, 2013

A Girl and Her Thumb

Winter roads

23-24th January, 2013 After the melting slush of Yerevan, Armenia resembles a soft white cloud, undulating to the border. The marshrutka – a small shared minibus – bobs and dives over hidden potholes, swerving around slippery mountain edges. Most Yerevantsi – people from Yerevan – won’t leave the city at all in the winter, the […]

by Jo Magpie at June 05, 2013 14:29

June 04, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

InFocus: La Alhambra & Generalife [Granada, Spain]

Santa María de León Cathedral is a masterpiece of the Gothic style and took over three centuries to complete. The cathedral is a playground of light and its stain glass windows are among the most impressive in the world, pouring colour around the vast space.

Illuminated façade of Leon Cathedral - León, Spain (18)

Situated on the site of a 2nd century Roman baths and a former Royal palace, construction began on León Cathedral in the 13th century, under the command of the Master architect Enrique and was not fully completed until the 19th century.

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, pews

Probably the finest example of Gothic architecture in all of Spain, it was modelled on the Gothic cathedrals of France especially Rheims Cathedral and St-Denis Basilica. The western façade is particularly striking and is flanked by two towers and contains some beautifully made Gothic portals and a large Catherine window. Within the Cathedral itself, 125 medieval stained glass windows illuminate a French Gothic interior with three aisles, a short transept, and a five-bay choir. The stunning effect of the rays of sunlight crashing through the stained glass windows onto the lightly coloured stone has earned the temple the nickname “House of Light.”

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, stained glass windows (2)

The north transept adjoins to the 13th and 14th century cloister, with notable features being the Romanesque and Gothic tombs, and the, now faded, but finely detailed frescoes. The Cathedral Museum (Museo Catedralicio Diocesano de León) houses nearly 1,500 works of art from prehistoric times to the 18th century with a special focus on religious art including over 50 sculptures of the Virgin Mary.

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - cloister (2)

Websitehttp://www.catedraldeleon.org/
Opening Times: Santa María de León Cathedral: Oct – Apr: Mon – Sat: 9.30 a.m. – 1.30 p.m., 4 p.m. – 7 p.m. Sun: 9.30 a.m. – 2 p.m. May – Sept: Mon – Fri: 9.30 a.m. – 1.30 p.m., 4 p.m. – 8 p.m. Sat: 9.30 a.m. – 12 a.m., 2 p.m. – 6 p.m. Sun: 9.30 a.m. – 11 a.m., 2 p.m. – 8 p.m. Museum & Cloister: Oct – Apr: Mon – Sat: 10 a.m. – 1.30 p.m., 4 p.m. – 7 p.m. May – Sept: Mon – Fri: 9.30 a.m. – 1.30 p.m., 4 p.m. – 8 p.m. Sat: 9.30 a.m. – 12 a.m., 2 p.m. – 6 p.m., Sun: 10 a.m. – 11 a.m., 4 p.m. – 7 p.m.
Price: Santa María de León Cathedral: Standard Ticket: 5 €, Pensioners, Students, Groups: 4 €, Under 12′s: free Museum & CloisterStandard Ticket: 5 €, Groups: 3.50 € Museum Only: 3 €, Clositer Only: 2 €, Under 12′s: free

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior

Gallery (click to enlarge)
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Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – cloister (3)

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Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – cloister (4)

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Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – cloister

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Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior (2)

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Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior (3)

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-3.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-3.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-3.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior (3)" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior, pews (2)

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews-2.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews-2.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews-2.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, pews (2)" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior, stained glass windows

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows.jpg?w=192" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows.jpg?w=640" width="96" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows.jpg?w=96&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, stained glass windows" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – cloister (2)

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-cloister-2.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-cloister-2.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-cloister-2.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - cloister (2)" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior, pews

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-pews.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, pews" />

Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain – interior, stained glass windows (2)

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows-2.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows-2.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/santa-marc3ada-de-lec3b3n-cathedral-leon-spain-interior-stained-glass-windows-2.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Santa María de León Cathedral, Leon, Spain - interior, stained glass windows (2)" />

Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), seen from under an arch, León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-34.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-34.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-34.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Leon Cathedral, seen from under an arch - León, Spain (34)" />

The cloister of Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-33.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-33.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-33.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="The cloister of Leon Cathedral - Leon, Spain (33)" />

Stained Glass windows and Chapel of Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), Leon, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-31.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-31.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-31.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Stained Glass windows and Chapel of Leon Cathedral - Leon, Spain (33)" />

Illuminated façade of Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-18.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-18.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="111" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-18.jpg?w=150&h=111" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Illuminated façade of Leon Cathedral - León, Spain (18)" />

Inside the Gothic Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-9.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-9.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="97" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-9.jpg?w=150&h=97" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Inside the Gothic Leon Cathedral - Leon, Spain (9)" />

Stained glass window in Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), León, Spain (8)

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-8.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-8.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-8.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Stained glass window in Catedral de León - León, Spain (8)" />

Altar Mayor y Retablo (The Main Alter) of Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-32.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-32.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-32.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="The Main Alter of Leon Cathedral - Leon, Spain (32)" />

The illuminated façade of Catedral de León (Leon Cathedral), at night, León, Spain

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-2-cathedral.jpg?w=248" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-2-cathedral.jpg?w=640" width="124" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/leon-2-cathedral.jpg?w=124&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="The illuminated façade of Leon Cathedral, at night - Leon, Spain (2)" />

written by: Jon

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Filed under: *Guides*, *Photos*, A dedo por la Península Ibérica 2012, Monuments, Spain, _trips_ Tagged: architecture, backpacking, cathedral, León, monuments, photography, Spain, travel, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 04, 2013 13:24

June 02, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 38

Hello everyone on this beautiful June weekend and welcome to the 44th edition of our popular Travel Photography Competition. This week we are reviewing photos published on our Facebook page between 8th and 15th May.

Here in Barcelona, the weather outside is at last summer-like which has put us in good moods and made us think about our forthcoming holidays :-) And where are you planning to travel this summer? If you haven’t decided yet, our Competition may help you make up your mind, as this week we’ve got for you four beautiful photos from around the world.

The first winner in our competition was taken at Ahu Tongariki on Easter Island, Chile. This Polynesian island is located in the south-eastern Pacific and is famous for its 887 characteristic monumental statues, called moai, created by the early Rapa Nui people. The majority of the statues were carved between 1100–1680 AD.

Ahu Tongariki is the largest ahu (stone platform) on the island, located on its southern coast.

Easter Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Rodrigo Wen - Ahu Tongariki, Easter Island, Chile

This zmazing picture was sent to us by Rodrigo Wen, a photographer from Beijing based in Lima, Peru. If you like this shot, you should definitely check out his Flickr photostream, you won’t be disappointed, Rordigo is a VERY talented photographer!

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The second winner in this week’s competition came all the way from Myanmar and shows a fisherman at sunset on the banks of Inle Lake. The fisherman is most likely a member of the the Intha tribe (lit. “sons of the lake”!), which is a Tibeto-Burman ethnic group living around Inle Lake. They speak an archaic dialect of Burmese, are traditionally Buddhist and are known for their leg-rowing techniques.

Inle Lake is the second largest lake in the country and one of the highest as it’s located on an altitude of 800 m.

Ugo Pisani Massamormile - Fisherman at sunset, Inle Lake, Burma

This picture was sent by Ugo Pisani Massamormile from Italy. Check out his Flickr photostream for more.

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This week in third position we have two pictures which got an equal number of votes. the first of them was taken in the Serengeti and shows a magnificent leopard relaxing in the grass. The Serengeti is a geographical region in Africa located between Tanzania and Kenya. The Serengeti hosts the largest terrestrial mammal migration in the world and it’s considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa. The word “Serengeti” derived from the Maasai language and means “Endless Plains”.

Thomas Retterath - Relaxed Leopard in the Serengeti

This lovely shot was taken by Thomas Retterath from Nürburg, Germany. This talented photographer specialises in wildlife photography and his favourite place is “the Okavango Delta in Botswana. A really remote place with great wildlife.”. To see more of his pictures, visit his 500px profile or his Flickr photostream.

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And the last picture is this week’s selection was taken in Lisbon, Portugal and shows the iconic yellow tram. Trams are a very traditional form of transport in the Portuguese capital and were introduced in the 19th century, after having been imported from the USA.

Did you know that Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in the world, and the oldest city in Western Europe? It’s older than other modern European capitals such as London, Paris and Rome by hundreds of years.

In 2011 Lisbon was declared the 7th most visited European city and it’s home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Rogério Paulo Pedrosa - Famous yellow tram in Lisbon, PortugalThis lovely picture was taken by Rogério Paulo Pedrosa from Porto, Portugal.

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Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at June 02, 2013 19:52

June 01, 2013

Fabzgy's Life

heavy rain instead of summer

In the last couple of days we had quite heavy rainfall in our region which caused the rivers to grow and flood some of the fields around my village. Around here the flood prevention systems seemed to be able to cope with the floods so I enjoyed the day and took some pictures of the last rain before the summer finally starts here in central Europe. Enjoy!
Überflutungen am 01. Juni

IMG_20130601_180430_webZusammenfluss von Dreisam, Elz und Glotter

by Fabzgy at June 01, 2013 20:53

May 30, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

8 things to do for free in Granada

Comprised of a fortress (the Alcazaba), palace (Palacios Nazaries), garden (the Generalife) and government city (the Medina), the medieval complex of La Alhambra overlooks Granada is one of the most famous attractions in Spain.

Granada, Spain  (155) - Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

Originally constructed as a military stronghold in 889 it was converted into a Muslim Royal Palace in 1333 by Yusuf I, Sultan of Granada. After the Reconquista by the Catholic Monarchs, the palace was modified, and added to by subsequent Christian Monarchs, including the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V who constructed the Palace of Charles V within the Alhamabra’s walls. La Alhambra stands at the pinnacle of high Muslim art in Europe and is a sea of columned arcades, gentle running water and reflective pools all designed to combine with the austere and unremarkable exterior to promote the idea of peace and serenity.

Granada, Spain (17) - Inside Al Alhambra - a row of pillars in the Patio de los Leones

Generalife was the summer residence of the Nasrid Emirs of the Emirate of Granada. The gardens were built during the reign of Muhammad III (1302–1309) and renovated by Abu I-Walid Isma’il (1313–1324) and consist of a long, thin pool framed by columns, flowerbeds and pavilions in the style of medieval Persian gardens.

Granada, Spain (103) - Inside Al Alhambra - view of the Palacios Nazaríes as seen from the Generalife

Websitehttp://www.alhambra.org/
Opening Times: Oct 16 to Mar 15: Daytime: Mon – Sun: 8.30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Ticket office: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Night-timeFri & Sat: 8 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Ticket office: 7.30 p.m. to 8.30 p.m. Mar 16 to Oct 15: DaytimeMon – Sun: 8.30 a.m. to 8 p.m. Ticket office: 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Night-timeTue – Sat: 10 p.m. to 11.30 p.m. Sun & Mon: Closed Ticket office: 9.30 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.
Buying tickets: You can purchase tickets at the door but due to the huge demand and the limited number of visitors every day, we recommend you reserve your tickets in advance. You can do this at any La Caixa cash-point which are common throughout the city.
Tickets: Day Visit There are two different day tickets which include Alcazaba, Nasrid Palaces, Generalife, Medina and Gardens. Morning ticket: From 8:30 to 14:00. Afternoon ticket: From 14:00 to 18:00, or from 14:00 to 20:00. Night visit The capacity is restricted (400 persons). Inc. Only Nasrid Palaces
Price:  Direct Sales - Day visit: 13 € - Night visit: 8 € - Garden visit: 7 € - EU Students under 26 with valid ID: 9 € - EU senior citizens (65+), pensioners 9 € - People with disabilities 8 € - children under 12 : Free admission Advance Ticket Sales: 18,90 €.

Granada, Spain  (158) - Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

Gallery (click to enlarge)
.

Granada, Spain (9) – Inside Al Alhambra – view along the reflective pool of Patio de los Arrayanes

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Granada, Spain (15) – Inside La Alhambra – gold inscriptions in the Sala de los Mocárabes

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-15-inside-la-alhambra-gold-inscriptions-in-the-sala-de-los-mocc3a1rabes.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-15-inside-la-alhambra-gold-inscriptions-in-the-sala-de-los-mocc3a1rabes.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-15-inside-la-alhambra-gold-inscriptions-in-the-sala-de-los-mocc3a1rabes.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (15) - Inside La Alhambra - gold inscriptions in the Sala de los Mocárabes" />

Granada, Spain (28) – Inside Al Alhambra – arches flooded with light in Sala de los Reyes

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-28-inside-al-alhambra-arches-flooded-with-light-in-sala-de-los-reyes.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-28-inside-al-alhambra-arches-flooded-with-light-in-sala-de-los-reyes.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-28-inside-al-alhambra-arches-flooded-with-light-in-sala-de-los-reyes.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (28) - Inside Al Alhambra - arches flooded with light in Sala de los Reyes" />

Granada, Spain (30) – Inside Al Alhambra – close up of highly decorative Arabic script

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-30-inside-al-alhambra-close-up-of-highly-decorative-arabic-script.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-30-inside-al-alhambra-close-up-of-highly-decorative-arabic-script.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-30-inside-al-alhambra-close-up-of-highly-decorative-arabic-script.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (30) - Inside Al Alhambra - close up of highly decorative Arabic script" />

Granada, Spain (35) – Inside Al Alhambra – Highly decorative design and stained glass window in the Mirador de Daraxa

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-35-inside-al-alhambra-highly-decorative-design-and-stained-glass-window-in-the-mirador-de-daraxa.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-35-inside-al-alhambra-highly-decorative-design-and-stained-glass-window-in-the-mirador-de-daraxa.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="112" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-35-inside-al-alhambra-highly-decorative-design-and-stained-glass-window-in-the-mirador-de-daraxa.jpg?w=150&h=112" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (35) - Inside Al Alhambra - Highly decorative design and stained glass window in the Mirador de Daraxa" />

Granada, Spain (43) – Inside Al Alhambra – main façade and the five arched porch of Torre de las Damas

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-43-inside-al-alhambra-main-fac3a7ade-and-the-five-arched-porch-of-torre-de-las-damas.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-43-inside-al-alhambra-main-fac3a7ade-and-the-five-arched-porch-of-torre-de-las-damas.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="112" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-43-inside-al-alhambra-main-fac3a7ade-and-the-five-arched-porch-of-torre-de-las-damas.jpg?w=150&h=112" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (43) - Inside Al Alhambra - main façade and the five arched porch of Torre de las Damas" />

Granada, Spain (54) – Inside Al Alhambra – the view from the second floor of Palacio de Carlos V

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-54-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-from-the-second-floor-of-palacio-de-carlos-v.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-54-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-from-the-second-floor-of-palacio-de-carlos-v.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-54-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-from-the-second-floor-of-palacio-de-carlos-v.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (54) - Inside Al Alhambra - the view from the second floor of Palacio de Carlos V" />

Granada, Spain (63) – Inside Al Alhambra – the Alcazaba’s Torre de la Vela and Torre de las Armas framed by spawling city

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-63-inside-al-alhambra-the-alcazabas-torre-de-la-vela-and-torre-de-las-armas-framed-by-spawling-city.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-63-inside-al-alhambra-the-alcazabas-torre-de-la-vela-and-torre-de-las-armas-framed-by-spawling-city.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-63-inside-al-alhambra-the-alcazabas-torre-de-la-vela-and-torre-de-las-armas-framed-by-spawling-city.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (63) - Inside Al Alhambra - the Alcazaba's Torre de la Vela and Torre de las Armas framed by spawling city" />

Granada, Spain (64) – Inside Al Alhambra – floor plan of Plaza de Armas, inside the Alcazaba

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-64-inside-al-alhambra-floor-plan-of-plaza-de-armas-inside-the-alcazaba.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-64-inside-al-alhambra-floor-plan-of-plaza-de-armas-inside-the-alcazaba.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-64-inside-al-alhambra-floor-plan-of-plaza-de-armas-inside-the-alcazaba.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (64) - Inside Al Alhambra - floor plan of Plaza de Armas, inside the Alcazaba" />

Granada, Spain (77) – Inside Al Alhambra – the view over Plaza de Armas towards Torre del Cubo and Torre del Homenaje

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-77-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-over-plaza-de-armas-towards-torre-del-cubo-and-torre-del-homenaje.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-77-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-over-plaza-de-armas-towards-torre-del-cubo-and-torre-del-homenaje.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-77-inside-al-alhambra-the-view-over-plaza-de-armas-towards-torre-del-cubo-and-torre-del-homenaje.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (77) - Inside Al Alhambra - the view over Plaza de Armas towards Torre del Cubo and Torre del Homenaje" />

Granada, Spain (88) – Inside Al Alhambra – pathway leading to Convento de San Francisco‎ (parador) in Alhambra Alta

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-88-inside-al-alhambra-pathway-leading-to-convento-de-san-franciscoe2808e-parador-in-alhambra-alta.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-88-inside-al-alhambra-pathway-leading-to-convento-de-san-franciscoe2808e-parador-in-alhambra-alta.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-88-inside-al-alhambra-pathway-leading-to-convento-de-san-franciscoe2808e-parador-in-alhambra-alta.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (88) - Inside Al Alhambra - pathway leading to Convento de San Francisco‎ (parador) in Alhambra Alta" />

Granada, Spain (101) – Inside Al Alhambra – a room in the Generalife with surrounding hills visible through arch

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-101-inside-al-alhambra-a-room-in-the-generalife-with-surrounding-hills-visible-through-arch.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-101-inside-al-alhambra-a-room-in-the-generalife-with-surrounding-hills-visible-through-arch.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-101-inside-al-alhambra-a-room-in-the-generalife-with-surrounding-hills-visible-through-arch.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (101) - Inside Al Alhambra - a room in the Generalife with surrounding hills visible through arch" />

Granada, Spain (104) – Inside Al Alhambra – white washed buildings of the Generalife

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-104-inside-al-alhambra-white-washed-buildings-of-the-generalife.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-104-inside-al-alhambra-white-washed-buildings-of-the-generalife.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-104-inside-al-alhambra-white-washed-buildings-of-the-generalife.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (104) - Inside Al Alhambra - white washed buildings of the Generalife" />

Granada, Spain (107) – Inside Al Alhambra – tree roofed tunnel in Jardines Altos del Generalife

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-107-inside-al-alhambra-tree-roofed-tunnel-in-jardines-altos-del-generalife.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-107-inside-al-alhambra-tree-roofed-tunnel-in-jardines-altos-del-generalife.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-107-inside-al-alhambra-tree-roofed-tunnel-in-jardines-altos-del-generalife.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (107) - Inside Al Alhambra - tree roofed tunnel in Jardines Altos del Generalife" />

Granada, Spain (108) – Inside Al Alhambra – view across the Generalife with the steeple of Santa María de la Alhambra

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-108-inside-al-alhambra-view-across-the-generalife-with-the-steeple-of-santa-marc3ada-de-la-alhambra.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-108-inside-al-alhambra-view-across-the-generalife-with-the-steeple-of-santa-marc3ada-de-la-alhambra.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-108-inside-al-alhambra-view-across-the-generalife-with-the-steeple-of-santa-marc3ada-de-la-alhambra.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (108) - Inside Al Alhambra - view across the Generalife with the steeple of Santa María de la Alhambra" />

Granada, Spain (145) – The Palacios Nazaríes of Al Alhambra, taken from Grupo Padre Manjón

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-145-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-of-al-alhambra-taken-from-grupo-padre-manjc3b3n.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-145-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-of-al-alhambra-taken-from-grupo-padre-manjc3b3n.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-145-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-of-al-alhambra-taken-from-grupo-padre-manjc3b3n.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (145) - The Palacios Nazaríes of Al Alhambra, taken from Grupo Padre Manjón" />

Granada, Spain (154) – Palacios Nazaríes, Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-154-palacios-nazarc3ades-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn1.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-154-palacios-nazarc3ades-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn1.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="84" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-154-palacios-nazarc3ades-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn1.jpg?w=150&h=84" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (154) - Palacios Nazaríes, Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín" />

Granada, Spain (163) – Close up of Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-163-close-up-of-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-163-close-up-of-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="84" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-163-close-up-of-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=150&h=84" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (163) - Close up of Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín" />

Granada, Spain (166) – Close up of the Alcazaba of Al Alhambra,taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-166-close-up-of-the-alcazaba-of-al-alhambrataken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-166-close-up-of-the-alcazaba-of-al-alhambrataken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="84" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-166-close-up-of-the-alcazaba-of-al-alhambrataken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=150&h=84" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (166) - Close up of the Alcazaba of Al Alhambra,taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín" />

Granada, Spain (158) – Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-158-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-158-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="84" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-158-alcazar-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=150&h=84" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (158) - Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín" />

Granada, Spain (103) – Inside Al Alhambra – view of the Palacios Nazaríes as seen from the Generalife

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-103-inside-al-alhambra-view-of-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-as-seen-from-the-generalife.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-103-inside-al-alhambra-view-of-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-as-seen-from-the-generalife.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-103-inside-al-alhambra-view-of-the-palacios-nazarc3ades-as-seen-from-the-generalife.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (103) - Inside Al Alhambra - view of the Palacios Nazaríes as seen from the Generalife" />

Granada, Spain (17) – Inside Al Alhambra – a row of pillars in the Patio de los Leones

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-17-inside-al-alhambra-a-row-of-pillars-in-the-patio-de-los-leones.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-17-inside-al-alhambra-a-row-of-pillars-in-the-patio-de-los-leones.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-17-inside-al-alhambra-a-row-of-pillars-in-the-patio-de-los-leones.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (17) - Inside Al Alhambra - a row of pillars in the Patio de los Leones" />

Granada, Spain (155) – Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-155-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-155-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="84" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/granada-spain-155-palacios-nazarc3ades-and-palacio-de-carlos-v-of-la-alhambra-taken-from-mirador-de-san-nicolc3a1s-in-barrio-el-albayzc3adn.jpg?w=150&h=84" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (155) - Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín" />

written by: Jon

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Filed under: *Guides*, *Photos*, A dedo por la Península Ibérica 2012, Monuments, Spain, _trips_ Tagged: Alhambra, architecture, backpacking, Granada, monuments, photography, Spain, travel, travelling, UNESCO

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 30, 2013 13:22

May 29, 2013

Compared With Me You Are All Tourists

A day alone in Pakistan

The friend with whom I had travelled for two weeks had left, and this was my first day alone Pakistan. Together, we had hitch-hiked the Karakoram highway. It had been a long trip up to the mountain capital of Gilgit and I was still physically tired from the long road. I did not want to venture too far away yet, instead my plan was to go and visit a village somewhere nearby. Just to see what happens.




I went hitch-hiking along one of the roads leading out of Gilgit. Soon enough, I ended up in a small village called Sultan Abad, visibly an Ismaili village, because at its entrance a huge sign of the Agha Khan foundation stood. It had a dusty main street lined by small, white-washed houses. The rest of the village was made up of homes and gardens clinging to incredibly steep slopes. The Indus river passed further down from the road. It was the early afternoon, and the village youth were streaming out of the school building to go home after their lessons. A young woman with a big smile spotted the foreigner and invited her home. Her name was Naima, and it turned out her house was the highest one up a steep path, the last one to reach after a long, sweaty climb. It goes without saying that the views over the surrounding mountains only improved as we toiled up the incline. 
Once inside the house, after having made me sit down on the carpet in her living room, I was given the first cup of salty tea of the trip - and of my life. The drink proved so unusual for my taste buds, I could not finish it. 

In the course of the conversation, just between the two of us, Naima showed me a picture of a young man about her age: "Look, this is my fiancé!", she was squeaking with excitement. "How did you meet your future husband?" I asked. "After our engagement", was the answer. The way I must have goggled at her did not throw her off: "It was an arranged marriage", she explained to me with the utmost naturalness. "His sister works together with my father. My parents chose for me." The fact that a working woman helps arranging a marriage for a relative telescopes how progressive Ismaili society is on some points, while being able to remain traditional on others.
 "But you are okay with their choice, you like him, right?", I asked, a bit worried for Naima's well-being. I did not have to be: "Oh yes!", she shrieked as if the guy on the picture was some sort of pop-star. 
Later she left me sitting with a few female cousins of hers who had just arrived, walking off to talk to her husband-to-be on her mobile phone outside of the room for a long time. They talked every day, but never in real life, only on the telephone. When we later heard that he was coming, that meant the group of us girls would walk back down the mountain, so that Naima could cast a spying eye on the man for just a short while.

He had come in his car, stopping on the street. We stayed a bit further up the hill, watching Naima´s older brother talk to the pop-star. I realized now that the picture she showed me must have been taken a few years earlier. Neither of the two men did as much as look up the hill, which would have been acknowledging our presence. The men finished their tête-à-tête carrying out that man hug thing, slapping each other on the shoulder like two business partners who knew their dealings together are going well.

One of my later hosts in Pakistan
We went back up home. At this point, the girls offered me my first ever glass of lassi. It is  a yoghurt drinksometimes prepared like ayran in Turkey, mixing yoghurt with salted water, but in Pakistani villages usually made by taking the liquid that forms on the top when making butter from yoghurt in a receptacle, or at least that was what I was explained!
This drink, too, my taste buds at first rejected, finding it a little too zesty and unusually bitter this very first time. 
Over the following weeks however, I was going to grow to love the taste of this particular drink, and when offered the blander 'ayran version' of it, I would wistfully remember that first, authentic drink of lassi that I had that day, in that village, with that girl called Naima.

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 29, 2013 09:05

Crossing The Bridge

The amount of empty and dilapidated buildings in Frankfurt an der Oder was almost shocking. Unemployment cyphers are high in this part of former East Germany. The town still struggles to get back onto its feet since the passing of Communist times.

The Oder here has not been straightened on the Polish side, which makes it particularly picturesque, with lots of reeds and little tongues of land jutting out into it.
We took the bridge across the river. There we were, in a different country now: Poland.

View back to Germany over the Oder from Poland.

"Strange, on the Polish side, the national flag is flying on every street. On the German side you don't see a single one!", my travel partner remarked. "Well if you think of the history of the two countries, it is quite obvious why the Germans don't dare to ostentate any patriotic feelings. It is only reasonable on their part", I  advanced the only answer I could possibly give, really. Apart from a comprehensive rejection of the idea of usage of those coloured pieces of cloth, trivializing symbol of the repressive machinery that is the state, that is.


Having arrived in the new country, at every street corner I felt the impulse to snap photos of the signs and advertisements in what seemed to be the loveliest of languages. Nie parkować, Uwaga!, Salon Frizjerski. I had to stop myself in my tracks, telling myself, "hang on, there will be a lot more of this where you are going". The cool thing about Polish are the long sequences of consonants, rsz or szcz not being uncommon combinations. For a Russian speaker, the partial mutual intelligibility of the two Slavic languages offers additional delights.
The most common hilarious false friend is the word "sklep" seen on any shopfront all across Poland. In Polish the word simply means "shop". Now in Russian, phonetically the same word, that is "cклеп" ('sklep'), is a burial vault!

By comparing the phrase "za darmo" to Russian, the best I could come up with was, however vulgar and non-sensical it may seem, that it might mean "for shit". "For shit" in Russian would be "за дермо", 'za dermo'. But no, I was wrong, "za darmo" is not vulgar at all and it simply means "for free". Always a term a traveller must know.



Another great false friend is this one: Signs advertising "Salon Urody" or, like here, "Sekrety Urody" are particularly funny. In Polish they respectively mean "Beauty Salon" and "Beauty Secrets". 'Urody' being the genetive of 'uroda', 'beauty'.
Now, in Russian, урода, ('uroda'), means something like "monster, ogre, freak".

Also check out my language blog, where I will soon blog about Polish words of German origin.



by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 29, 2013 08:51

Queen's Day in Amsterdam


We ride our bikes to the city centre. Out here, in the suburbs, everything is quiet, most shops are closed as they would be on a Sunday. The only palpable difference to any other day off are the Dutch flags flying from a window here or there. "It is a good day to spot Nazis", Geert remarks as we pedal past a couple of them.


As we approach the city centre, the first low thumps of outdoor discos scattered here and there reach us, and we have to slalom our way to avoid the first groups of drunken revellers. In one of the side-streets that we pass, a guy in an orange hat and with an orange jacket is puking over a street drain, while being held at both arms by a friend each equally oranged- up. A little further up the street, a group of young lads all adorned with orange paraphernalia jeer and holler in his direction.





Today across the city everyone is legally allowed to sell what they have in their house. The streets become one immense flea market. A Sikh man selling books and old vases has put on an orange turban for the occasion. A married Muslim couple are walking around selling the orange moustaches, orange feather boas and orange inflatable crowns worn by young and old out in the sunshine today.
Between the merry-makers, a couple of dark-skinned and unsmiling, utterly sober Rroma are wending their way with big plastic bags over their arms. They are collecting abandonned cups and bottles. If you work hard on Queen's day you can earn up to 300 Euros in this way.

The police is ubiquitous. The group of riot cops we just passed are forcing themselves to smirk at the passers-by, feigning a good mood and friendly disposition. They put three orange hats into the front of one of their vans, trying vainly to lighten up their presence. I remember something I read on wikipedia, in the article about slang terms for police vans: "The Black Maria is also called 'Mother's Heart' as it is said that there is always room for one more."
Today, the vehicles will remain unoccupied thankfully.

My friend and I are heading to one of the central streets, where yearly one of the cafés puts a stage out onto the pavement and has some punk bands playing. The crowd of onlookers is not too dense. There are some black hoodies, some leather-jackets with studs, some sunglasses hiding the goggly eyes of excessive speed consumption, but there certainly is no orange in sight. A lady dressed conservatively in an ankle-long beige coat and a headscarf with a man, probably her husband, at her arm, stays in the back, tapping her foot to the music. Last night I saw the same lady film the punks in the mosh-pit on her mobile phone,  positionned in exactly the same spot where she is standing now. It seems she liked the music, so she came back today.

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 29, 2013 08:43

May 28, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

The unofficial border crossing

We were in Vietnam, halfway through our journey. We’d left behind the friendlier south, with Ho Chi Minh City’s French colonial architecture and unpredictable traffic, yet to enter the hostile north where we would soon find out what it’s like to be the object of racism and that not everyone is treated equally in this country.

We were moving along the South China Sea’s coast and the winds blew us to the stunning ancient trading port of Hoi An. This medium-size town has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site not without a reason. It’s stunning 15th-19th century wooden buildings, previously belonging to wealthy tradesmen, give it a unique air and in  my eyes make it one the most beautiful places in Vietnam.

Beautiful colonial architecture in Hoi An, Vietnam

Walking the streets of Hoi An, we also learnt that it took one Polish guy, Kazimierz Kwiatkowski, to seal Polish-Vietnamese cultural relations and “with his enthusiasm and talent, he contributed greatly to the discovery, research and publicity” of Vietnamese heritage, having helped Hoi An’s old town to be acknowledged by UNESCO in 1999, as we learnt from the plaque under his bust proudly displayed in the centre.

Kazimierz Kwiatkowski bust in Hoi An, Vietnam

It was our first day in town. Having found a place to sleep, we set off to explore. The early evening scorch directed us to the banks of the Thu Bồn River, which tempted us with a promise of a cooling breeze and a short break for our fatigued feet.

We hadn’t been there long, when an old Vietnamese woman approached us. She seemed friendly and spoke a bit of English, which was a surprising novelty in this part of the world. She explained she used to come there often as she had owned a boat in which to take tourists up and down the river. It used to be her main source of income and thanks to it she met a Frenchman who became her frequent boat companion. She had two small children who she had to look after on her own, as her husband had died or was away, we never found out.

Thu Bồn River, Hoi An, Vietnam

She asked if we’d like to come over for dinner. Of course we did! Homemade Vietnamese food cooked by a local especially for us sounded great. We agreed to meet by the bridge at 6 p.m. We said goodbye and went directly to our hostel to drop of some stuff and prepare to meet her again. We also bought some beers and snacks to show our gratitude.

6 p.m. on the dot we were there, standing in an obvious spot to be easily visible. We didn’t have to wait long; our friendly host soon arrived with a friend on a moped. Her male companion was driving and she explained that her house was quite far, on the other side of the river, somewhere in the jungle. Since all four of us couldn’t fit on the moped and go at the same time, I was taken first and Jon was left alone on the bridge.

As Ania disappeared further into the distance a fleeting moment of panic gripped me.

‘Is this a good idea? We hardly know the woman.’

Then I relaxed, she seemed nice, genuinely nice. This type of thing happens all the time when travelling, I reasoned. The guy will be back soon, I just need to be patient.

And so I waited…  and waited… with renewed fear rising all the time. After 20 minutes I began to get nervous, I tried to look closely at every passing motorbike trying desperately to remember the features of the man who had spirited Ania and our soon-to-be-host away. After 30 mins I was feverishly making back-up plans, knowing even then that I had no idea who to call in case of emergencies such as these and how I would never be able to explain what had happened to a police force that probably wouldn’t give a damn.

They took me to the jungle, driving on a bumpy dirt road through the village. I didn’t know where I was nor how to get back as there were so many turns and it all looked the same. After around 15 minutes we arrived at a house which resembled more a prefab than a house. It was an unpainted raw concrete box of two rooms, with no panes but wooden planks in the windows and covered with a corrugated metal roof.

It was in the depths of this silent, isolated torture that our driver found me. I breathed a sigh of relief so profound it scattered the passers-by. He signalled for me to get on, and off we went.

The journey seemed remarkable long considering how big the town actually was. Full of twisting turns and what I could have sworn was doubling back on ourselves. However, after 20 or 30 minutes we arrived at the lady’s house, and I saw Ania pass by the glassless window.

Inside of the house there was hardly any furniture. A table, a single kitchen cupboard and a bed covered with a straw mat; that was all. There was another door on the other side of the house through which Jon went in, around 20 minutes after our arrival. It probably shouldn’t have made me feel cautious but I thought it strange that they used two different doors, as if they were trying to confuse us and made it difficult for us to ever get back.

The lady showed us around and introduced us to her two lovely children. They were living in extreme poverty; there were no toys, no books, nothing which the kids could use to play or learn about the world with. When she started to cook I offered to help, which she kindly refused but after a while gave me some garlic to chop. Jon was playing with the kids, showing them his iPod which they’d never seen before. Some other kids from the neighbourhood came over and were curiously peeking through the window to see the “white” guests.

Jon and Vietnamese kids listening to his iPod

Not long after food was prepared. We thought it strange that the lady wasn’t eating too, as we were under the impression that she was returning home to eat and had invited us to dine with her. She poured us beer and then sat the table and told us about her troubles. Money seemed the cause of most of them or the lack of it to be more precise. Injury and bereavement, unemployment and abandonment. We sat, and we listened, feeling pity for the women’s plight.

The meal was simple but tasty during which our host wouldn’t stop telling us how hard her life was. Having to bring up two kids on her own, with no money or help at all. She said her older, 8 year old son was healthy but the younger one suffered from the Down syndrome, which made it even more difficult for her. We felt sorry for her and as we had previously agreed we would leave her some money at the end of our stay, just to help a little and to say thank you for the meal.

After the meal she took out a large wooden basin, which she filled with cold water from a hose and started bathing her youngest. We felt it was the time for us to go. We stood up and started saying how nice it was to come and visit her in her house, to meet her children and see how they lived, and to eat such tasty food.

“We know it’s not much but we thought we would give you some money for the meal, as it must have cost you a lot of money and effort to prepare it”, I said and produced slightly more than an equivalent of two meals in a restaurant. I feared she might feel offended. After all she invited us as guests and maybe it was in bad taste to offer money but I felt she could do with it.

“Give me more”, she said. I looked perplexed and she repeated her demand, naming a specific amount of money, which was twice as much as we had on us.

Then we understood. Having lured us to her house and having shown us the conditions she had to struggle with, she thought us an easy target. And as willing as we had been to help her and give us what we had on us, we couldn’t help feeling that she’d had it all planned, that she wanted to keep us there until we give her more money.

She kept nagging us for more but we lost our patience and felt the biggest idiots having fallen for a scam like that. We decided to leave.

“How do we get back to town?” I asked.

“You can fly” said she and turned away.

The shame of being had. My anger burned and my embarrassment blushed. How could I have been so naïve? The friendly woman who liked chatting to westerns? The separate journeys that had seemed intent on disorientating us?  We forced the money we originally offered in her hands and left not knowing where we were but determined to put distance between her and ourselves.

When we left, it was already very dark and looked nothing like when we had arrived. We were in the middle of this jungle village having no idea how to get back. We started walking and when we turned round the corner we asked some kids who pointed us in a direction. We walked and walked to the barking of dogs in the night, following a road we swear we hadn’t seen before. After only 20 minutes on foot we found the river, which only proved that the woman and her friend purposely chose a longer and complicated way to confuse us and prevent us from getting back on our own, in case we wouldn’t want to pay the money.

They must have done it on a regular basis. I wonder how many other backpackers fell into her cave before discovering that not all poor old women are kind-hearted.

written by: Ania & Jon

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 28, 2013 17:55

Compared With Me You Are All Tourists

In Tuva

"Oh my god, we searched for you everywhere! My name is Ayan, and you, I already know, are Iris!", the Minister's translator had walked towards me, taking my right hand with both of his so as to shake it most vigorously. "The whole city knows you already, your description was transmitted to all police agents!", he recapitulated the events of the past two hours. For the lack of anything else to say, could I formulate it the way that I was at least flattered that they put so much effort in trying to find me? Not really. For Christ's sake, it wasn't like I was really lost, to start with!
But that is another story.
Tuva














In any case, my travel partner and I, we had found each other again. Now, how to get rid of our chaperones? They had taken us to the tourist office and were, in fact, engaged on an advertising bender, opening all sorts of brochures in front of us, trying to sell to us the best hotels, cruises and resorts of the region (well, if Tuva had any resorts or cruises...). There was no way we could convince them that we wanted to just stick our thumbs out and hitch-hike away from here. After I had got 'lost' to so dramatic effect already one time today, they wanted to make sure we slept in one of the city's best hotels tonight!
We negotiated for a bit, and got to a compromise that pleased neither party involved, but placated both: Gregor and I would take a minibus to a small town an hour south of here, and stay in the only 'hotel' there, the municipal guest-house. The sort of thing all decent-sized villages have, most of the time used not by travellers but by workers arriving from other villages or the city, laying new gas pipes for example, or working on the municipal telephone lines.
By moving there, we would have the change of scenery from the capital city that we desired, and it would be cheaper.

The minister and Ayan escorted us to the minibus station, and Ayan warned us one last time, that he told the driver exactly where we were headed, and that he was also going to phone the hotel tonight and tomorrow morning to see what we were up to. "So please guys, no funny tricks!" If I had entertained the thought of starting to walk away trying to hitch-hike instead, this uprooted the idea. The message was clear, and so we stuck around, finally took our places in the back of the vehicle and paid the fare.
A girl came and sat next to me, and started chirpily chewing my ear off, with precisely the openness and sociability with which Tuvans strike you so often. After she had peppered me with questions about my life in Europe for a good while, she invited me and Gregor home: She lived on a stoyanka, a traditional farm, with cows and sheep guarded by big, dangerous dogs, her and her family housing in yurts, making their own butter and yoghurt. We would have to get off some 20 kilometers after the next village, and then we would have to walk four kilometers out into the countryside from the road. We would for sure love staying with her, she would give us lots of salty tea to drink and stuff us with gorgeous food! It sounded enticing indeed, but our path had been laid for us by others: The people at the hotel were waiting for us, and Ayan would soon call them to see if we had arrived.
However small the chance, if Ayan and the minister indeed would get the police to actively look for us, as they said, that was potentially bringing trouble on any alternative hosts. So really, we had to decline. A phone, the girl did not use. This was a one-off chance, and it had just effectively passed, even before the offer was made.

We ended up getting off the bus as convened over an hour ago in the village of Saryg-Sep, the minibus driver dropping us off exactly at the door of our quarters for the night. A hotel worker was already standing outside, smiling at us and enthusiastically waving, before she came scurrying over to help us carry our bags inside. "Oh my god! Foreigners arrived! I am going to tell everyone that I met foreigners today! I work here for years, and the last foreigners came two years ago in 2010! They were French and driving their own car. I did not work that day and I missed them!"
Once inside, she made us each a cup of tea and sat us down to register our arrival. Handling our passports she looked at them as if they were articles beamed in from outer space, and filled in all needed detail into the large, frayed ledger with a hesitant hand, as if she had never done this before. "You live in Amsterdam? In which country is that?"
There were some letters from the Latin alphabet she could not read, about which she asked me for help: 'W', the letter with which Gregor's surname begins and 'r', the second letter of my name.
But she did not see the task as a chore; all the while she was excitedly giggling as if she could not believe the adventure coming over her today!
Our `Hotel`

Her name was Natalya, and after she finished signing us in, she made us another cup of tea, and kept us for a rather long and intense exchanging of ideas. So interesting, a tète-à-tète with real foreigners!, she must have been thinking. Foreigners! Not Kazakhs or Chinese, no, Europeans! She bestowed a lot of local knowledge on me over the course of the following few cups of tea, and I began not to regret having come anymore. Gregor patiently sat on the chair next to me and listened to the conversation in the foreign tongue. At some point Natalya paused, seemingly randomly in the middle of a sentence. "Cлышали гул?" Did you feel the rumble? I had not. But twenty minutes later, there it was again. Very faint and far away, I would not know how to describe the phenomenon other than the earth grinding its teeth somewhere miles beneath.
"They always told us in school that Tuva lies on the sutures of a geological Tuva-Mongolian micro-continent, and that it is therefore a high risk seismic  zone. But we never believed it! Only thirty years later, December last year, the first serious earthquakes of our lives happened! And we have been shaking the whole year! There were times when the earth was like gelatine. The lights go out, and you try to run outside as far away from the houses as possible. You hold on to a tree, so as to try to stay on your feet. There were workers here, who arrived laughing: "As a child I survived the earthquake of Tashkent", one of them said to me, "I am not bothered by your earthquakes here."  With the Tashkent earthquake he meant the most devastating earthquake of Central Asia which happened back in the 60s. But days later him and the other men, they sat out on the street the whole night after an earthquake, pissing their pants so scared they were!"
The seismic centres were always somewhere out in the taiga, in uninhabited places, the first being over a hundred kilometers from the village Saryg-Sep, where we were now. But since then they had been coming closer: The centre of the strongest earthquake in February 2012 was only 50 kilometers from here, and right here in this village they measured 8,5 points on the MSK scale. Russia uses the Medvedev-Sponheuer-Karnik scale on which the highest point is 12, rather than the Richter scale we use in the West, which measures intensity on a scale between 1 and 10.
Indeed only a week after we left Tuva, there was an earthquake whose seismic centre was located as being only 15 kilometers South-East from the capital city Kyzyl. Thankfully, it was only 3,2 points on the MSK scale, and ended up being the last earthquake of the year.
     "The worst thing of this was that the earthquakes destroyed parts of our homes, our ovens especially. The government promised to dole out subsidies to those most affected, but in the end we received nothing. People with historic, a hundred year old houses even received nothing! And there were devastating hail storms this year as well, which completely destroyed this autumn's harvest; and it is not the first time something like this happened. The politicians put all the money into their own pockets and live in the lap of luxury, while the people suffer. Me myself, I am already a pensioner, and yet on top of the pension I receive I have two jobs to make ends meet." I thought back to the lady we met earlier today, coincidentally, the Minister of Finances. What a long day it had been! In any case, it could hardly be expected that she would be the glorious exemption from the systematic embezzlement going on among the ranks of those of her profession.
  We drank the last cups of tea by candle-light, then Gregor and I wandered off to our room as Natalya put the generator on. 

There can be said to have been a bit of an anti-climax as we realized we were paying for a place to stay for the first time in two weeks, but there still was no shower to scrub off the filth of the hundreds of kilometres of Altayan mountains and Tuvan steppe left behind us. The female toilet, an outhouse like usually, was lacking toilet paper, but had half a book (about plumbing, with text and illustrations) from which you could tear one yellowing, rancid page at a time. The male toilet did not even have an analogous book, I heard from Gregor.

Cowering trembling behind the generator, Gregor found a kitten. It may have been deaf to choose that particular spot to sit in. Even standing next to the thing, the noise was ear-splitting.  The frail, jittering animal had eye-disease and was barely bigger than Gregor's palm. Scooped up with the left hand and sheltered by a cupped right hand from above, it purred blissfully as he held it close to his body, onto the hollow above his solar plexus. He took the smelly little furball to bed later that evening.

Before bedtime we wanted to go out to get some beer, but Natalya advised us against this: "You know, the locals all get drunk after sun-down, and if you are from outside, they can easily start making you problems." It was a story we had heard many times before.
I let Gregor play with the furball, wrapped myself up in a few blankets, and simply snoozed off.

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 28, 2013 07:18

May 26, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 37

Hello everyone! It’s the weekend which means that we’ve got for you three fresh stunning pictures in our Travel Photography Competition. This week we are reviewing photos  published on our Facebook page between 30th April and 7th May.

One of the winning shots this week shows one of the destinations which we are planning to include in our imminent trip, which made us even more excited!

We’ll start this week’s selection with this beautiful autumn photo which was taken by Otto Lake just outside Denali National Park in Alaska, United States. Denali National Park was established 96 years ago and contains the States’ highest mountain – Mount McKinley, which rises to the elevation of 6,194 m above sea level.

Denali National Park is a beautiful nature reserve that attracts not only climbers and hikers but also cyclists, rafters, fishing amateurs and other outdoor types.

To get more details about the park, visit their official website.

Jeff Bell - Otto Lake just outside Denali National Park, Alaska, United States

This lovely shot was sent by Sent by Jeff Bell. If you like it, check out his blog at planetbell.me or his Facebook page Planet Bell.

_________________________________

The second winner in the 43rd edition of our popular competition came all the way from Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina, which we are planning to visit this very summer! The picture shows Stari Most (Old Bridge) which was originally built in the 16th century by the Ottomans. It was destroyed in 1993 during the during the Croat-Bosniak War. It was rebuild in 2004 and it’s considered one of the most emblematic sites of the country and a fine example of Islamic art in the Balkan region.

Mostar is one of the largest and most important cities in the Herzegovina region.

Drew Morcom - The old bridge, Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

This great and atmospheric picture was sent by Drew Morcom.

_________________________________

And the last winner for today was taken in Aveiro, Portugal. The city, which is home to 78,000 inhabitants, contains several tourist attractions, including cathedrals, canals and beaches. It’s also famous for its traditional sweets Ovos Moles de Aveiro and Trouxas de Ovos, both made from eggs.

Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves - Aveiro by night, Portugal
This great night photo was sent by Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves. If you like this photo, you should visit Bibi’s website.

_________________________________

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: *Photos*, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Portugal, USA Tagged: Alaska, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar, photography, Portugal, travel, travel photography, travelling, USA

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 26, 2013 16:23

May 25, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Braga, Portugal [travel guide]

Types of roads

1. Auto estradas (A) – motorways with the speed limit of 120 km/h. A number of auto estradas are linked with the Spanish motorway system and are normally toll roads. Rather confusingly each auto estrada forms part or all of an IP or an IC road, and are labelled with Portuguese A roadan “A” code as well as an IP or an IC code. Hitch-hiking on them is illegal.

2. Itinerários Principais (IP) – dual carriageways running north-south and east-west with a speed limit of 100 km/h. There are nine in total. Hitch-hiking on them is illegal. Portuguese IP road

3. Itinerários Complementares (IC) – dual carriageways supplementing the Auto estradas and Itinerários Principais network with a speed limit of 100 km/h. There are 37 in total. Hitch-hiking on them is a grey area.

4. Estradas Nacionais (N) (National Routes) / Estradas Regionais (E) (Regional Routes) / Estradas Municipais (M) (Municipal Routes) – lesser roads that span the country. The speed limit is 50 km/h in built up places and 90 km/h out of town. Hitch-hiking on them is legal but be warned traffic is extremely light on these roads.

Map of Motorways and Main Roads

map of main roads in Portugal

click to enlarge and see more details
source: ezilon.com

Speed limit on Portuguese roads

table of speed limits in Portugal

source: wikipedia.org

Absolutely essential hitch-hikers phrasebook

- hello – Olá (oh-LAH)
- thank you – Obrigado (oh-bree-GAH-doo) (said by male)
Obrigada (oh-bree-GAH-dah) (said by female)
- yes – Sim (seem)
- no – Não (now)
- please – Por favor (poor fah-VOHR)
- goodbye – Adeus (ah-DEH-oosh)
- hitch-hiking – Carona (ca-RUA-na)
- I don’t have money – Não tenho dinheiro (now TE-nyo di-NYE-ro)
- We don’t have money – Não temos dinheiro (now TE-mus di-NYE-ro)
- money – Dinheiro ( di-NYE-ro)
- I’m going to … – Vou a.. (voo a…)
- We are going to– Vamos (VA-mush)
- I am…  Sou.. (soh..)
- I am from…  Sou de… (soh de..)
- Nice to meet you!  Prazer em conhecer (prah-ZEHR ehn koh-NYEH-sehr)
- I don’t understand  Não compreendo (now kohn-pree-EHN-doo)
- now – Agora (a-GOR-ra)
- today – Hoje (OH-dzoo)
- yesterday – Ontem (OM-tem)
- tomorrow – Amanhã (AH-man-ya)
- friend – Amigo (ah-MI-goo)
Very useful when they ask you where you’re staying. The concept of Couchsurfing is often too difficult to explain, so just say you’re staying with a friend. You can also use this word to express the relationship between you and your fellow travellers.
- Can you stop? – Pode parar? (PO-dze per-RA)
- I want to get out Quero sair (KER-ro sigh-ERR)
- turn left – Vire à esquerda (VEER-eeh ah eh-SSKEHR -dah)
- turn right  Vire à direita (VEER-eeh ah dee – ray – tah)
- straight ahead – Em frente (eng –FRENG- te)
- here – Aqui (a-KEY)
- over there – Lá (la)
- beer – Cerveja (sir-VE-dzya)
You should know this word, you will be often invited for some.
- bus station – Estação de ônibus ( shta –SOWNG de ON-nye-boos)
You should know this word and listen out for it to avoid situations when your driver, in their best intentions, takes you off the road and drives you to a station.
- train station – Estação de caminhos de ferro (shta –SOWNG de ka–MEE–nyoosh de FE-rroo)
- help me! – Socorro! (soo-KO-rroo)
- look out! – Ter cuidado! (ter kwi-DA-do)
- street – Rua (WHO-a)
- road – Estrada (e-SHTRA-da)
- roundabout – Rotatória (ho-ta-TO-ri-a)
- crossroads – Encruzilhada (en-CRU-si-li-ar-da)

Porto, Portugal (43)

Main Border Crossings

Portugal is a member of the EU and the Schengen Agreement and so the border crossings between Portugal and Spain are no longer manned and thus should not present any problems for travellers.

The main border crossings between Spain and Portugal are as follows:

  • Northern borders:

- A3 : Valença do Minho (Portugal) – Tuy (Spain);
- IP3: Chaves (Portugal) – Verín (Spain);

  • Central border:

- A25: Vilar Formoso (Portugal) – Fuentes de Oñoro (Spain);

  • Southern borders:

- A6: Elvas (Portugal) – Badajoz (Spain);
- A22: Vila Real de Santo António (Portugal) – Ayamonte (Spain);

However do remember that if you are travelling to Portugal by car, you must bring a 20 € bill to pay for the toll on all the above motorways.

Lisbon, Portugal (6)

written by: Jon

***

Our Experience

We hitch-hiked in Portugal as part of our ‘A dedo por La Península Ibérica‘ (The Iberian Peninsula by Thumb) trip in 2012.

When hitch-hiking in Portugal we covered 672.1 km and got picked up by around 20 drivers from 6 different countries!

Read about our experience of crossing the Spanish-Portuguese border and watch a video here.

Map of our experience in Portugal

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 25, 2013 13:49

May 23, 2013

A Girl and Her Thumb

Snow fight!

3rd – 23rdJanuary, 2013 Yerevan is an ice-rink and we live in a fridge. The bathroom is a damp closet with a permanently wet floor – the kitchen too, since we turned off the fridge a few days ago to save electricity. The kitchen is colder than the fridge was anyway. The Ghost left while […]

by Jo Magpie at May 23, 2013 16:11

May 22, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Spain: hitch-hiker’s essentials

Most Beautiful Nature Spot

Spain is so beautiful that choosing only one “most beautiful” spot was a hard task. We are mountain lovers, so for us it would have to be Picos de Europa, a jaw-dropping mountain range located 20km from the northern coast across the communities of Cantabria, Asturias and Castile y León. Their highest point, Torre de Cerredo, reaches only 2,650 m so they are not too high and can be climbed by people who are out of shape as well.

Picos de Europa, Spain - Puertos de Áliva walk - PR-PNPE 24 (82)

Spectacular walks and stunning scenery guaranteed! The paths are well marked and the park is very well organised with a helpful tourist information booth whose staff speak fluent English, German and French!

Picos de Europa National Park has had a UNESCO Natural Biosphere Reserve status since 2003.

There are many access points to the park. During our stay we camped at the La Viorna campsite near Potes.

Potes, Picos de Europa, Spain (15)

You can find all the walking tours on this useful website.

Best city /  Town

Spain has an abundance of beautiful cities, towns and villages. You would be surprised how many unknown and forgotten medieval villages with cobbled streets we passed on our way. Places such as Sos del Rey Católico, Ainsa, Torla and Santillana del Mar remain relatively unknown and unbesieged by tourists, while if they were to be in any other country they would be the main attractions.

However, the most amazing city in Spain (and some would say even in Europe) is Barcelona, our home for nearly three years now. Stunning architecture (both Gothic and Modernist), direct access to the Mediterranean Sea and the beautiful mountain range of Collserola, a vibrant party scene and some of the best clubs in Europe, numerous parks, museums and art galleries are just a few reasons to fall in love with the Catalan capital. Besides, Barcelona is home to eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites!

Park Guell, Barcelona, Spain

It’s a lively, well-organised European metropolis with an efficient transport system and many cycling paths. Living here is really comfortable and hassle-free, and there is always something going on.

The city will simply blow your mind! We’d never known that we’d stay here for such a long time but we simply cannot leave. Barcelona is magnetic!

Pink sunset - Barcelona beach - Spain

Best area for hitch-hiking

The easiest areas for hitch-hiking in terms of the roads and the time it took us to get a lift were Aragón and Navarre. People in these two regions proved to be really friendly and many times went out of their way to help us. There aren’t that many motorways either and you will mostly find yourself on country and mountain roads, which is probably both good and bad, as in low season you might need to wait longer.

The scenery is truly stunning with the lovely Pyrenees on the horizon.

Panorama of the Onsella Valley and Pyrenees peaks in the distance - Sos del Rey Catolico, Spain

Tourist trap

We’ve been living in Spain for nearly three years and during this time we’ve heard many good things about the supposedly gorgeous San Sebastián. Its landscape and architecture amazed everybody we spoke to and many people told us that we would certainly fall in love with its food and the friendliness of its people. We entered San Sebastián with our hopes raised to the top and expected to see one of the most beautiful places human eye has ever seen. Indeed, at the first glance the town looked charming. Its fin-de-sicele architecture and the soaring Gothic cathedral drew our attention from the very first minutes after our arrival. However, the longer we spent in San Sebastián, the quicker the first positive impression faded away. To our utter surprise, we realised that under this façade of lovely buildings there was nothing else that could make us wish to stay there for more than two days. We visited the churches and the castle dominating one of the hills, we walked along the beach and finally admitted to ourselves that that was it. There was nothing more to the place than a couple of  pretty streets. Everything else was just very expensive boutiques and restaurants. The prices were so high that we couldn’t even try the famed pinchos. We weren’t the only ones, though. The long and never-ending queue outside McDonalds suggested that it wasn’t only us who couldn’t afford to eat out in San Sebastián.  Apart from that there were hardly any bars or cafés, so after you’ve done all the sightseeing possible, there was nothing else to do.

San Sebastian, Spain (23)

written by: Ania

***

Our Experience

We hitch-hiked in Spain as part of our ‘A dedo por La Península Ibérica‘ (The Iberian Peninsula by Thumb) trip in 2012.  Furthermore, we’ve been living in Barcelona for nearly three years now.

When hitch-hiking in Spain we covered 4026 km and got picked up by around 90 drivers from 14 different countries!

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: *Guides*, *Photos*, A dedo por la Península Ibérica 2012, Country guides, Spain, _trips_ Tagged: Aragon, backpacking, Barcelona, photography, Picos de Europa, San Sebastián, Spain, travel, travel photography, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 22, 2013 15:14

May 21, 2013

Liften Werkt!

robin geldloos, leven zonder geld

Liften is naast lopen en fietsen een fantastische manier van geldloos reizen, om gratis te reizen zonder geld. Toch is geld besparen voor vele lifters niet per se het doel, maar handig is het wel. Zodra je gewend raakt aan het liften, maak je van het liftend reizen zelf vaak het doel en is het […]

by robino at May 21, 2013 10:35

May 19, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 36

Good evening and welcome to our Travel Photography Competition as we celebrate the 3 most popular photos published on our Facebook page between 22nd and 29st April. Water seems to be a common theme in our winning shots, very apt given the grey clouds hovering glumly over hitchhikershandbook‘s heads this week in Barcelona. So join us as we take our weekly walk and forget about the miserable rain.

Our first winner this week comes all the way from the coasts of Iceland and is simply a remarkable picture depicting a long forgotten boat slowly capsizing into the waters.

Fr brinks photography - old shipwreck in Iceland

This stunning photo was sent by Fróði Brinks. To see more of his beautiful pictures, visit his Facebook page Fr brinks photography and his Flickr photostream.

_________________________________

Our next winner this week was taken in South Mountain State Park, North Carolina in the United States and shows the tranquil park in full greenery. The park covers an area of 16,664 acres (67 km²) and includes part of the South Mountains, a branch of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Its most famous feature are the High Shoals Falls a 300 ft (100 m)  waterfall.

Harry Hoover - South Mountain State Park, North Carolina, United States

The photo was sent in by Harry Hoover from the USA. Harry is a first time winner and we congratulate him for his wonderfully crafted shot. You can check out more of Harry’s work by visiting his blog.

_________________________________

And our last picture this week was taken in Porto Germeno, Greece and it’s a stunning view across the surrounding Mediterranean. Porto Germeno is a beach resort area located in the Attica prefecture on the north-eastern coast of the Corinthian Gulf. Nearby stands the fortress of Aigosthena, dating back to the 3rd century BC, considered one of the best-preserved ancient castles in Greece.

Vagelis Pikoulas - Porto Germeno, Greece
This stunning shots was sent by Vagelis Pikoulas, our regular Greek contributor. If you like this picture, go to Vagelis’ Flickr photostream for more.

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

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Travel Photography Competition
week 36

Filed under: *Photos*, Greece, Iceland, USA Tagged: boat, competition, Greece, Iceland, photography, sea, travel, travel photography, travelling, USA

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 19, 2013 18:28

May 18, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Famous Gaudí house Casa Batlló open to visitors for free

If you have ever been to Catalonia, you probably know that Catalan people are very proud of their cultural heritage and that’s not without reason. Along with other unique cultural traditions, festivals and celebrations, castell (human tower) is a spectacle definitely worth watching. It will leave you speechless, I can guarantee it.

Castell - Castellers de la Sagrada Familia - Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (27)

Castell is a street performance during which members of the team form a tower by climbing onto each other’s shoulders. There are many variations of these human towers and the highest can reach up to as many as 10 levels (about 14 metres off the ground)!!!

It’s truly breathtaking! Just imagine trying to stand still on your friend’s shoulders, who is also standing on somebody’s shoulders, while at the same time trying to hold the person standing on top of you! Not only does it need great acrobatic skills, but it also requires the highest levels of concentration and team responsibility.

Castell - Castellers de la Sagrada Familia - Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (25)

It’s a very gripping spectacle during which you will keep your fingers crossed and pray the wobbly tower of people doesn’t fall right before your eyes.

Facts and background:

  • The tradition of building human towers started in the town of Valls, near Tarragona, at the end of 18th century.
  •  The castell is considered successful when all the members manage to climb onto their designated positions and the enxaneta (the topmost person, usually a child) raises their hand with four fingers erect, which is a gesture symbolising the stripes of the Catalan flag.
  • Apart from the regular climbers, who form the upper parts of the tower, there are others who create a so-called pinya – the bottom base of the castell. Its function is to sustain the tower’s weight as well as play the role of a cushion in case the tower collapses.
  • Traditionally all castellers wear white trousers, a black sash, a bandana and a coloured shirt representing the team they belong to.
  • The sash (faixa) is the most important part of their attire, as not only is it used by the castellers as a hand- or a  foothold while climbing up the tower, but it also supports the lower part of their backs and prevents injuries.
  • The motto of castellers is “Força, equilibri, valor i seny” (Strength, balance, courage and common sense).
  • In 2010 castells were declared a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Castell - Castellers de la Sagrada Familia - Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (23)

Where to see them?

Castellers, giants (another traditional Catalan show) and falconers will perform in Barcelona, from now on  throughout the summer, every Saturday.

Castell – Castellers de la Sagrada Familia – Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (9)

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Castell – Castellers de la Sagrada Familia – Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (29)

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Castell – Castellers de la Sagrada Familia – Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (33)

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Castell – Castellers de la Sagrada Familia – Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (36)

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Castell – Grupo Joven Chicos de Villafranca – Portal del Ángel, barcelona, Spain (9)

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Check out the details:

18/05 – Av. catedral
Castellers de Sants
Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia
Gigantes Coordinadora de Gigantes de Barcelona

25/05 – Pla de la Seu
Falcons de Barcelona
Falcons de Capellades
Gigantes de Santiago

08/06 – Av. catedral
Castellers de la Sagrada Familia
Castellers de Rubí
Falcons de Barcelona

15/06 – Av. catedral
Castellers de Barcelona
Castellers de Berga
Esbart Renaixença
Bastoners de Poble Sec

16/06 – Pla de la Seu
Haciendo país. 60 aniversario de Ballets de Cataluña

29/06 – Av. catedral
Castellers del Poble Sec
Colla Jove de Hospitalet
Esbart Santa Eulalia
Bastoners del Raval

06/07 – Av. catedral
Castellers de Barcelona
Castellers de Lleida
Gigantes del Raval

13/07 – Av. catedral
Colla Jove de Barcelona
Castellers de Sant Feliu
Esbart Catalán de Danzantes
Cuerpo de Bastoners

20/07 – Pla de la Seu
Ballets de Cataluña

27/07 – Av. catedral
Castellers de Barcelona
Castellers de Cornellà
Gigantes de San Pedro

10/08 – Av. catedral
Castellers de la Vila de Gràcia
Castellers de Castelldefels
Gigantes pequeños del Pi

17/08 – Plaza Nueva
Falcons de Barcelona
Baile de bastones de Sitges
Moixiganga de Valls
Gigantes de la pl. nueva

31/08 – Av. catedral
Colla Jove de Barcelona
Castellers de Viladecans
Colla Sardanista Mare Nostrum

written by: Ania

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: *Photos*, Spain Tagged: acrobatics, Barcelona, Catalonia, culture, performance, photography, tradition, travel, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 18, 2013 20:10

May 15, 2013

A Girl and Her Thumb

Happy Birthday Azadeh!

25th December, 2012 – 3rd January, 2013 , Isfahan and Tehran My bus has just pulled in for a thirty minute break at a mangy service station when my phone rings. It’s Emée. She, Hrach and two French guys have just arrived at the Iranian-Armenian border. I’m so happy I could cry. “Let me speak to […]

by Jo Magpie at May 15, 2013 12:21

May 12, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 23

Hello everyone and welcome to the 41st edition of our popular weekly Travel Photography Competition. As every week, we have for you a fresh selection of photos, which got the biggest number of votes on our Facebook page between 14th and 21st April.

The first winner in this week’s competition shows the beautiful Dimitrios shipwreck located near Gythio, off the eastern coast of the Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece.

Dimitrios sunk on 23rd December 1981. There are many rumours about its tragedy, one even involving a ghost. The most convincing story, however, says that the ship was used to smuggle cigarettes between Turkey and Italy. On the fateful day it was apparently seized by the port authorities and then deliberately released out to sea to meet its destiny. It was then set on fire to, to hide the evidence of cigarette smuggling.

There are a total of 26 shipwrecks off the Greek coast.

Petros Asimomytis - shipwreck, to the east of the Peloponnese Peninsula, Greece
This beautiful shot was sent by Petros Asimomytis, a passionate photographer from Greece, who focuses on colours and lights in his works. If you like this shot, visit his website and his Flickr photostream.

_________________________________

In the second position in this week’s competition we’ve got two photos with the same amount of votes. The first of them was taken on Mont Blanc du Tacul in the French Alps. Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif, situated  between the Aiguille du Midi and Mont Blanc.

The first official ascent took place in 1855 by the English climber Charles Hudson and his team.

Ruberti Cristian - Mont Blanc du Tacul, French Alps, France
This great adventurous photo was taken by Ruberti Cristian from Italy and it was his first ascent over 4,000m. Congratulations!

If you like this photo, visit Cristian’s Flickr photostream.

_________________________________

The second photo with the same amount of votes was taken in Foz do Douro, Porto, Portugal. Foz do Douro, which literally means “Mouth of the Douro”, is located at the  mouth of the Douro river flowing into the Atlantic Ocean. Foz is one of the most affluent districts of Porto and its mostly inhabited by the upper class.  This is also where many popular beach-front bars, cafés, clubs and restaurants are located.

Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves - Foz, Porto, Portugal
This lovely photo was sent by Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves from Portugal. If you like this photo, you should visit Bibi’s website.

_________________________________

And the last photo in this week’s selection was taken in front of the Taj Mahal, Agra, India. It is a white marble mausoleum built in 1653 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his third wife Mumtaz Mahal. This unique UNESCO World Heritage Site attracts between 2 to 4 million tourists every year.

You can visit the Taj Mahal between 10.00 am and 5.00 pm.

Ticket prices: – Foreign tourists: 750 Rs
- Citizens of SAARC and BIMSTEC Countries: 510 Rs
- Domestic/Indian visitors: 20 Rs

Find more information on the official website tajmahal.gov.in.

Jean Nicole Uy Alaba - Taj Mahal, Agra, India
This beautiful picture was taken by Jean Nicole Uy Alaba who says: “The photo is a shot of Taj Mahal from a dreamer’s point of view. We, dreamers, tend to look up in the sky when we hope for something unreal to become a reality or something impossible to become possible. We dream when we are asleep and we dream when we are awake. Nothing does hinder us. And when a slight chance of hope is imparted on us, may it be a form of a possibility or a quick win, we feel that our dreams are a step closer to becoming true. The bird in the photo represents that even the unexpected moments can awaken even the stalest dream. These peculiar chance of hopes is what fuels us to strive and yearn for more. It encourages us that we should not limit ourselves to the obvious world that we are encapsulated in. It tells that in the simple things, we should see hope for our dreams.”

If you like this, visit her blog at theeagertraveller.com.

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE

Week 40 Week 23
Travel Photography Competition
week 40
Travel Photography Competition
week 23

Filed under: *Photos*, France, Greece, India, Portugal Tagged: Alps, France, Greece, India, photography, Portugal, Taj Mahal, travel, travel photography, travelling, UNESCO

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 12, 2013 10:03

kimmieslife

Liberia: Religion and Rebels


After the evening in Ganta watching the Christian preaching show [link], I woke early the following morning to make the long journey along the messy, un-driveable road to Zwedru.  A jeep full of suited men and women stopped first for me.
"Are you a Peace Corps volunteer teacher?" said the most important looking man.
After being a traveller for so long, I've learnt how to always say the right thing to any person I come across.  So this time, I said; "Yes!"  A little white lie won't hurt anyone I thought.
"Oh good! Jump in then! I work for the Ministry of Education.'
So I had given the right answer.
We stopped for lunch along the way where I got talking to one woman named Deborah.  She worked for the Norwegian Refugee Council (the jeep was full of professionals from different organisations all connected in some way), and she was also a Reverend at her local church.  I took the opportunity to ask her opinion on the preachers crusade in Ganta that night.
"I don't like that he asks for money.  Nobody likes that.  People here don't have money to give."

After lunch, we reached their destination where they then helped me find a ride going further on towards Zwedru.
"She's a Peace Corps teacher" Deborah said to the UN officer who had stopped, importantly, for the white woman who was apparently in need of safe guarding.  He took me to the UN headquarters where he tried to find anybody who was driving to Zwedru that day.  Nobody was.
"It's ok, I'll just go to the road and wait for a car."
Ever paranoid as UN peace workers seem to be in Africa, he escorted me to the road and said to the guard;
"She's a Peace Corps volunteer, make sure she stays safe."
That meant that my little lie was carried on to my next ride with a woman from another branch of the UN, the UNHCR (whatever that is), thankfully enough because I had to fill out a waiver form for the vehicle and state which company I worked for.  Peace Corps it was!  I'm not proud of lying, I just think this story is funny, plus I'm not entirely sure I would have gotten anywhere that day if I had told them I was just a traveller.  Nobody even understands the word 'tourist' in Liberia... because there aren't any.

That ride took me all the way to Zwedru, where I met a friend of a friend, Frank, an American working for an organisation which organises refugee camps for those who had moved to Liberia during the civil wars in their own countries.

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Liberia imports all it's fuel, making it very expensive, therefore making traffic incredibly scarce especially in remote areas such as Nimba and Maryland.  Because of this, the following day, I waited around three hours for even one vehicle going anywhere near Harper.  I was lucky though, as I always seem to be, as a man stopped for me, apologised for not having air-conditioning, then drove for five hours all the way to the village just before Harper.

Once I arrived, I met a friend of a friend (again!), Tim, an American who is a Liberian history teacher at the local university.  He introduced me to his friend Lee who gave me a place to stay for two nights.  So he was a friend of a friend of a friend.  One my second day there, Tim held a presentation at the university on his current research project about a sacred rock situated just south of Harper.  For hundreds of years this large rock was believed to be sacred by everybody within its proximity.  There were traditions and rituals carried out in the name of the rock following the strong beliefs by the people.  When the country was founded in 1821 by freed African-American slaves, they brought with them Christianity and spread it through the country to the indigenous people.  The rock then became less and less important in the lives of these Liberians, till the point where now only the elders of surrounding villages remember and have stories to tell.  As with most religions, traditions, and beliefs of the world, if they are not documented in the 'western' way they are easily pushed aside and forgotten.  The rock, which was incorrectly translated to English as "Devil's Rock", had its stories passed down through generations by word of mouth.  Just as the rest of Africa, and Latin America to add, the traditional beliefs of the people of the land were nullified by Christianity.

Hearing this story from a professional historian, it confirmed to me my belief of how strong Christianity is.  I compared this to my recent memories from the Jesus Crusade in Ganta.  I questioned if it is Christianity which is saving these people.  Could their original religions do the same for them?

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Now if I thought that Zwedru was difficult to escape from, imagine my difficulty leaving Harper; the last and only town with an open border along the entire stretch of Ivory Coast!  Apparently rebels of Ivory Coast hide out along the border and cause trouble for anyone worth anything - like professionals, military personnel, or even Westerners if they have the chance.

I took a motorbike early in the morning but got stranded half way to the border when the tyre burst and needed changing.  We stopped in a tiny, isolated village whilst the driver got it fixed and I was offered a seat on a small block of wood outside the villages shop.  Some women came to sit with me, to keep me company I suppose.  Then a strong, fully-built deck chair was brought across the village especially for me.  I sat, looking around and realising the truth behind the fact that Liberia is the second poorest country in the world.  Almost everybody was skin and bones with huge, swollen bellies indicating malnutrition.  A young boy, I would guess around four years old from his height, was crying and moaning continuously.  He sat alone outside on the dirt floor in a tired, uncontrollable sob.  I asked a woman if he was ok.
"No.  He sick.  He got piles."
His extremely skinny limbs contrasted sharply with his huge belly.  He was so malnourished that his liver had swollen to the point of pushing his insides outwards.  He reached upwards with his small arms to pull himself to his feet.  His little legs quivered with weakness.  He tried to walk the few steps needed to reach his mothers side but fell down after two steps.  His mother picked him up and sat across from me with him on her lap.  I coughed away a few tears and swallowed hard to relieve the lump in the throat.  I felt sick with hurt.  I asked the woman if I could take a photo of her with the boy.  She smiled and said yes.  She didn't know my reason.

The motorbike was fixed and before we left I took one last look at the little boy who had no hope of living very much longer.

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We reached the border where I hastily got my visa checked and passport stamped, then jumped into the boat which would take me across the river to Ivory Coast.  The driver, or paddler should I say, told me a ridiculous price for the five minute journey.  I told him I would swim instead.  Everybody in the boat laughed then one woman blurted out; "I paid 150, it's 150!'  The driver snapped her an evil look, then sighed in disappointment as I handed him the 150.

Frantically searching through my collection of coins from around the world for some West African Franc which I might have left from Senegal, I realised I was stranded with no useful money in this remote border town.  Here, there were definitely no vehicles to hitch with.  The woman who helped me on the boat then offered to pay for my journey to the next big town where I could then pay her back.  Wow!  Where did this woman come from?!  Who was she?  She was Catherine and she was my saviour for the day.

We reached Tabou, where I managed to exchange some money, and where Catherine and I had decided to be friends for the next day.  She was heading to Abidjan the following morning on a bus, so I decided that was my plan too.  We got a hotel room between us for the night.  After lots of conversation, I got to know her story.  It was during the civil war that the rebels came to take her.  Her father protected her but they shot him in the foot to warn him of their power.  He handed her over to them.  She was raped multiple times by the gang of rebels.  She was fourteen years old.  Nine months later she gave birth to a baby boy.
"He lives with my parents.  If I look at him he reminds me of what happened."

It wasn't all doom and gloom conversation with her though.  She was actually a happy, cheerful, independent woman with a good life and a good job in Harper.  That night we got drunk on beer on the expense of a French white man who we met in a bar.

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What a lot to write for only five days of travel. Liberia really is a place full of people with incredible stories.  Tragic stories at that.  But also ones filled with hope and faith in God and in themselves, looking to a future whose only way is up.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at May 12, 2013 07:41

May 11, 2013

A Girl and Her Thumb

The Arg of Karim Khan

20th-24th December, 2012, Shiraz and Persepolis I am a giraffe in Iran. I walk the streets with my long neck, swaying in the breeze. People stop and gape. “Where from? Where from?” They’ve never seen a giraffe before, not even on television. Trouble is, being an exotic animal is starting to grind me down. They […]

by Jo Magpie at May 11, 2013 14:02

Compared With Me You Are All Tourists

Few things are more incongruous than me flying to a Mediterranean island. From the moment I set foot on Cyprus, I felt not in my right place. In front of Paphos airport, palm tree leaves rustled gently in the wind. The glistening sea daintily threw up waves in the sun.

From home that day, pictures had reached me of two cars that slithered off-road nose-diving into a nearby waterway and a train that had derailed because of the day's frost and ice (it was skilfully photo-shopped by a satire magazine). Heightened risk of accident notwithstanding, winter is my favourite season, and oh the pang of missing out on the year's first proper snows! The bright daylight softly caressed my skin, but I longed for the bite of more appropriate December degrees on my skin. Anyway, there was little I could do about it now, so I had better go and start hitch-hiking away. Plus, as I had to remind myself, there was a reason I was here - to meet my old time friends, Lena and the Joker, and I was looking forward to that.
Soon, a first car took me along.

I let myself be under the illusion that the lifts I got that day provided me with some sort of measured representation of population distribution on the island. First an English expat married to a Russian took me on, then a Russian father and daughter who live on the island, and in the end a few cars with Greek people with very limited, but existing English.





Apart from the clement weather and the beaches which attract all those foreigners, many Russians register their businesses in Southern Cyprus. Although their companies are operating in their homeland, they do this for the usual purpose of tax evasion.
As my drivers took the fastest road leading to the next city Limassol, "exit" signs for leaving the motorway started flashing past us. However haltingly, I can read the Greek alphabet, and the Greek word appears to be "exodos". Insert some sort of joke about the Biblical significance of motorway exits here, but
anyway, I was reminded of the "Le Grec Sans Peine" self-teaching Greek course of which I had once, a long time ago, perused a few chapters. It had been a very instructive experience. After all, the ancient form of this language underlies so much of our specializing terminology in all European languages today. And modern Greek still continues to have much of the same vocabulary.  To name just a couple of obvious exponents most of us will recognize, "khronos" (from which we have 'chronology') still means 'time'; "gluko", which gave us 'glucose'), means 'sweet' or 'sweets'.
The juxtaposition of a high-brow lexeme of European languages with the simple meaning of the original Greek frequently leaves a funny impression. Think of "thalamos", which means "chamber, booth". Speakers of modern English may know this word from designations given to parts of the brain in neurology. There is for example the "hypothalamus", a Latinized form which as we know now literally translates to "the chamber below". The usage of the Greek cognate is a bit more prosaic: "Telephone booth" for example becomes " telephonikos thalamos". Next, take the word "atomo"; originally it has nothing to do with complicated physics, in modern Greek it applies to humans and simply means "individual". "Apostolee" is a verb that means "to send", so think of the apostles as the "sent ones". "Protos", as in 'prototype', is the translation of the ordinal number "first". The list goes on and on.

In the end I got sick of waiting by the road side and gave up on my project hitch-hiking to the seaside city of Larnaka, my destination.
    Nothing so incongruous as me with a handful of other tourists  on a bus shaking along on a road parallel to the sea with popular Greek music as the soundtrack.

But I met Lena and the Joker that night!

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 11, 2013 14:39

"My mother comes from Hyderabad...

"My mother comes from Hyderabad", she said as an aside to some story. "She" being the girl with the backpack.  "Wow, that sounds so exotic" I could not help but exclaim, myself never having been East of Lahore, in Pakistan. "Oh, it's just another foul city", she brushed away my remark.

I had been staying with some old friends in the far-flung Eastern Turkish town of Kars, when I met her. The town's main street is always busy. Shoeshiners sit at the side behind the large, heavily ornamented and gold-plated boxes they carry, waiting for someone to put their foot onto them. Small boys thread the crowd picking on individuals to sell paper tissues. At the beginning of my second week's stay in Kars, on a calm sunday afternoon ambling down that very mainstreet, I saw before me a huge backpack swaying from left to right above a slim pair of legs. I felt chatty, so I thought "let's babble with the backpacker". The person on the other side of the backpack was Indian, and her name was a bit long, a bit complicated, although it sounded beautiful, Malavika. It was just a little bit too long and too complicated for the few days of our acquaintance, so that in my head I came to name her simply "the girl with the backpack".

She had rigorous opinions on the politics in her country. "What would have to happen for the system to change in India? Slow democratic processes, or will it take a series of armed uprisings leading to revolution?" "Oh, nothing will help. Only the Black Plague."

A day later a friend of hers arrived, a girl named Sonya, who had the misfortune to be married to a man called Dexter.  (Mind you, still a few years ago, there would have been nothing very special about that name, but you do wonder how she is handling the constant jokes today. Even I could not suppress one.)
The same evening all of us met up, and we toddled up to the shop to get hands on some cheap Marmara beer and Anadolu cigarettes before hiking the steep way to the castle to consume them.
When the shop keeper rolled up the beers into newspaper before putting them into a black plastic bag like it is usually done with alcohol purchases in Turkey, Malavika remarked, "Interesting that they do that. In India it is hygenic pads they roll up in newspaper and then put into an opaque plastic bag. Menstruation and alcohol - the two have to do with shame!"
The only answer I could think of was, "Anyway I do both, I menstruate and drink at the same time!"

Ten minutes later we settled down with our bottles on a wall overlooking the nightly city just under the castle gates to share stories.

Kars Castle at night
The girls were three days in the country and had accumulated an annoyance a day having to do with dodgy guys. The last happened with some man who offered them a cigarette not far from here when the two were strolling in the autumn sun. They then followed his invitation to the teagarden, where with extremely intrusive behaviour he irritated the hell out of them. Although a lot of local women smoke in the house, accepting a cigarette from a man in public is basically a code for answering in the affirmative the question whether you are a loose girl, sad but true. It is weird how I find that so natural when being in more conservative regions by now. Personally, I still do what I want, I drink and smoke in public, but while doing so, I avoid eye contact with anyone of the male part of society, and if anyone dares to be so impudent as to offer me a cigarette, I for sure send them away with a hostile remark!
There is a lot of 'codes' to learn. Like the proper answer to a man's question "Do you work here?" is as fast and decisively as possible answered with "No, I am a tourist." The question about work coming from an unknown man in 99% of cases  is meant to be an abbreviated version of "do you work as a prostitute?"

Another story of a bothering suitor was with an off-service policeman inviting Malavika for soup. She took her contact lenses off and put her glasses on, as to make herself unattractive. Quite a funny idea, that anyone would think that would work.

Thankfully, in her short time in the country, Malavika made observations other than that overbearing impression of men being a nuisance. She made a list of Turkish words she recognized from Hindi:

Turkish      Hindi        English Translation
Sabun       Sabun       Soap
Şeker        Şakr          Sugar
Sabah        Subuh       Morning
Çorba        Şorba        Soup
Badem       Badam      Almond
Meydan     Medan      City-square
Vakit          Vakt         Time
Köfte          Kofta       Meat-balls

As I initially assumed most of these words are of Arabic origin, and entered both Hindi and Turkish from there (with a detour via Persian sometimes, as for Hindi). Researching a little, I learnt that for Şeker and Badem, things went the other way round: Both entered Turkish from the other direction - they are originally from Sanskrit, having 'travelled' via Persian.
By the way, the first two words, soap and sugar, are cognates in English, too, although their shape changed rather a bit more.

"İnsan and İnsaniyet - Human Being and Humanity, are the same also", Malavika added as an afterthought. "Insaniyet, the word for 'humanity' is one of my favourites anyway. It sounds so close to 'insanity', so very fitting."

The next night, I invited the two girls to come for dinner. It was sweet to see the transformation of my friends into such typical super hospitable Turks! Sevim brought Kadayif as dessert especially for the occasion, and Nihat made it a point of giving them both a little present (small wine-bottle shaped candles).  The two tourists loved it too, kneeling on the carpet around a table cloth of newspaper, sharing traditional food with a bunch of hippies who could only communicate with them with hand and feet.

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 11, 2013 14:39

May 07, 2013

kimmieslife

Diamond Differences

[Link to photo album for this post]


This time I had no choice.  I was in the middle of nowhere, so hitching was the only way to reach the closest city 200 km away.  Exhausted with malaria, I sat at the side of the road waiting for a vehicle.
I was stuffed in the back of a jeep, sharing a one person seat with two other people.  The road was unbearable.  Spoiled by the rain and bad driving, we got stuck several times behind vehicles which had been too hasty.  Stopping gave me a chance to vomit out my guts and for others to feel sorry for me.

Upon passing through the border of Liberia, I was put in the front seat of a taxi and waited for it to be filled.  My brain didn't work fast enough to think of finding a ride which was leaving immediately.  So I just sat there.  For hours.

Finally, here I was in Monrovia.  Desperate for rest, I stopped in a compound and lay down on a sun lounger at the side of a pool.  I was woken up hours later by a man asking what I was doing.  He invited me to stay in his home, where I stayed for the next week.  He turned out to be the second richest man in the second poorest country in the world.




For the following three weeks, I was shown dramatic differences in wealth in this country.  This also reflected back to what I saw in Sierra Leone, but hadn't fully comprehended at the time.  These two countries have such a large expat community, especially Liberia; with NGO's (Non-Governmental Organisations), big businesses, and funding from Europe and North America at every turn.  Both countries are rich in natural resources like diamonds, gold, and iron ore, among others.  Yet, despite all these facts, more than 60% of people live below their national poverty line in both countries.


It was nice to have a rest from the difficult conditions I had been living in for the past few months, so I couldn't really complain about staying with rich, white people and hanging around with them every day.  They were all very nice, interesting people.  But it was strange to adjust to this way of life when in the back of my mind I knew I was in poverty-struck Africa. Here's how my story in Monrovia went...


One night I went to a party of the man who I first stayed with, the second richest man in Liberia; only expats were allowed into the party, money was spent on alcohol, and by the end of the night there were people falling all over the dance floor from drunkenness.

The following day I was kindly invited to a buffet lunch; it was Easter Sunday so they had hidden painted eggs all around the house for us to find.  I admit I had a good time, had some nice conversations, ate some good "western" food which my stomach was dying for after such a long time away from it.

I met some journalists from Canada at this lunch, and managed to tag along with them on their business trip to Robertsport.  It was really interesting to hear them talk about how they create a story, how they find out all the information they need.  They asked about my trip and were astounded at what I was doing.  From then on they kept asking me questions about what I had come across, about people, about poverty.  I shared my stories willingly of course, but it did feel strange to be being interviewed by these people, who were also in Africa.  It was like they didn't know that they were here too.
Whilst the journalists were out collecting information each day, I spent my time at the beach and in the town.  There was a little boy, Elijah, who was always hanging around the beach, collecting coconuts and mango's to sell to people.  He said he didn't need money from me because I was his friend.  I ignored those comments and gave him a few dollars here and there.
When he was still at the beach in the afternoon, I asked "Why aren't you at school?"
"Oh, I didn't collect enough coconuts" he replied.
"What do you mean?"
"The teacher said no money, no school."
"What about your parents?"
"My mum is in Monrovia because my grandmother has died.  So I'm here by myself.  That's why I'm collecting fruit to sell."
I costs five US dollars for the books he needed for the whole school year.  I gave him the money.  He gave a fast, heavy sigh, smiled, said "thankyou my friend" and ran up the hill towards school.  I saw him later and he told me all about what he had learnt that day.
Later in the day, he hurt his foot playing in the sand.  He ran to me to tell me.  I cleaned it and wrapped it up in a bandage.  I felt like I was his mother!
When the journalists had got their stories, we returned to Monrovia.  I gave Elijah some money and told him to be careful with it and don't spend it all at once.  He is ten years old, so I doubt he will be manage it all that well.

After spending a week with the second richest man in Liberia, my already-organised Coushurfing host returned from a trip home, so I moved in with him for the following two weeks.  Mario had a good job, lots of money, but I could see that he didn't spend it on himself; he always talked about his family and what he had done for them.  Staying with him was very funny, he lived such a bachelor lifestyle!  One evening we had cereal and beer for dinner.

I was invited to a weekend trip to Mount Nimba by the friendliest couple I've ever met, Katie and Guillaume, and some of their other friends.  We had a great time, everyone was so friendly and fun to be around.  We walked up Mount Nimba, (where I unfortunately began vomiting; the first signs to me that the malaria had come back for a third time.  I won't tell that story again, it's the same as the last one), and saw the beautiful landscape together.
     After expecting an untouched jungle with an abundance of wildlife, I was saddened to see that whole mountain tops had been dug into mines to collect iron ore from the 1950's until the 1970's and left to stay like that for eternity.  On the other hand, this did create a unique picture of layered hillsides as well as a lake that had burst through from a spring during the mining, the iron ore even made the lake a bright blue colour.
     During the long drive back to Monrovia, we stopped in a leper colony to check out a shop which had been recommended to us by somebody.  The people of the village handmade wicker baskets, which I have to admit, were really impressive and would probably sell in Europe for more than fifty euros each.  There was a church service going on when we arrived, and when I went to watch the people singing their hymns, a small boy reached out to shake my hand.  For the first time on my trip in Africa, I had to refuse.  Leprosy is spread through touch.  He looked at me confused.  My heart sank.
     As we waited for some of our group to purchase some baskets, some of us sat in the car waiting.  The conversation was something about this new technology that had been developed where you put this tiny computer in your shoe and it can somehow tell you directions to the place you desire to go....our driver of the rented car, a Liberian man, who hardly talked for the entire trip, burst out "Why do you need that?!"  Yeah, that's right, what a stupid conversation to be having when we were in Africa, for one, and in the middle of a leper colony, for another.  I wasn't the only one who though this; we all looked at each other in embarrassment.

None of this story is meant to attack the people I met, who were all very nice people, or anybody else who is working and living in Liberia.  I am only explaining my experience and that it felt very strange and kind of unethical to be so separated from the real world, living a life of luxury, drinking, partying, playing, not being involved in the Africa that surrounds you.

After writing this post, I can see it will be really difficult for me to adjust when I return home. 

[Link to photo album for this post]

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at May 07, 2013 18:08

Christian preaching in Liberia

I had seen the signs all over Liberia:
"Healing Jesus Crusade - Dag Heward-Mills"
I had no idea, though, that when I finally decided to leave Monrovia, I would, after six hours of hitchhiking, arrive in a town on its first night of the show.  I was told by the diver of my last ride that God must have organised it this way for me and therefore I must attend.  [I don't usually call this God, more a coincidence or fate... but what is an a word?]  I took his advise and decided to stay here for the night.

As I walked through the dark; dim-lit streets of Ganta, a man named Thomas decided he would accompany me to the show.  The open football field was filled with thousands of people, people who had come from remote villages from all over the Nimba region of Liberia, even people from neighbouring Guinea, all just for this special event.  Thomas told me the last time there was a large Christian crusade like this was in 1989; four years before the civil war began.




The show started with hymns being sung in the traditional African call-and-response way between the singers on stage and the thousands of spectators in the crowd.  I decided to join the big family behind me, mainly made up of children who had noticed the white woman and all had their turn to hug me, who were especially enthusiastic in their clapping, dancing and singing.





Then the preacher came on stage and ruined everything by asking for money.
"Who has $1000?"
"Probably nobody" I thought, disgusted.
"Who has $500?"
"Is this man even on this planet?!" I couldn't believe my ears.
"You can be part of this crusade you can be our brother or sister in spreading the message of God to the people of your country!  Be our partner and God will reward you!"
Some rich person chirped up with $100.  Then a few more did.  People in red shirts came out to the rest of us, shoving bags in faces encouraging people to give what cash they had.  I gave in to the pressure too; it was embarrassing not to.

After the cringe-worthy section was over, he got down to the real preaching.  The story telling.  The guilt-trip avenue.
"Let's talk about sins..."
"How many of you have lied before?"
Everybody put their hands up, laughing guiltily.
"How many of you have stolen before?"
Everybody put their hands up, laughing, chatting, admitting to each other.
"How many of you have fornicated before?"
This got the loudest laugh as most people put up a hand.
"How many of you have killed someone before?"
There was a striking cry of guilt as half of the crowd put their hands up.  My heart sank in momentary confusion.
"Yes, many of you were involved in the war; you were rebels or otherwise!"
He ended his speech with a long prayer for the crowd to repeat after he had spoken.  Not one person remained silent.  They spoke to God softly and with passion and love.  They spoke to Satan with anger and strength; "Satan! I am finished with you! I belong to God!"
The electric force of the cries of the thousands of people around me sent shivers through my body and jolts through my heart and tears to my eyes and an unbearable lump to my throat.

After my time so far in Africa, I have been coming round to the opinion that religion is actually good.  My self-important, "intellectual", "western" mind of thinking that religion, forced or otherwise, has so many negative effects has gradually become void.  After witnessing the reactions in this crusade, my mind has been changed entirely.  All these people who have terrible pasts filled with war and death and who are faced with guilt and heartbreak in their memories... How could you ever move on from that?  You can't, because you are still waking up every day struggling to feed your family because you live in one of the poorest countries in the world.  Until Africa is relieved of its poverty, religion and belief in God is the only answer for individuals.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at May 07, 2013 16:42

May 06, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Win Canon 5D Mark III or Nikon D800

Good news for all you shutterbugs!

SnapKnot is giving away either a brand new Nikon D800 or Canon 5D Mark III ($3,000 – $3,500) to one lucky photographer. The winner will be selected by a random draw on 15th July 2013.

All you have to do is to like their Facebook page & provide your contact details.

Win Canon 5D Mark III or Nikon D800

The contest ends on July 15, 2013 at 11:59 pm PST. No purchase necessary.

Shipping is free for USA residents; winners outside of USA are responsible for shipping fees and your country taxes. Read the full rules of the competition here.

Big thanks to the SnapKnot wedding photography directory for offering this great camera giveaway!

Good luck everyone! Hopefully one of us can win! :-)


Filed under: Competitions Tagged: camera, Canon, competition, giveaway, Nikon, photography, travel photography

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 06, 2013 12:59

Compared With Me You Are All Tourists

A Tale of Never Again

At Amsterdam-Amstel, there is a liftershalte, an official place for hitch-hikers to stick their thumb out and hope for a lift (because "hope" is what they do here). It is designated by a road sign depicting the unmistakeable erect thumb, white-on-blue. In my lifetime I was stupid enough more than once to try to hitch away from there.

Amsterdam Westerpark

For one, even though you are in their country, never count on Dutch people to give you a lift. Out of four lifts from Amsterdam-Amstel, two were by French people, one by an English man, and one by two Belgians.
The Dutch live in the country with the most highly developped degree of capitalism in Western Europe, and they like it that way. Why should anyone have anything for free?

But hang on, I am only going to relate the two most devastatating of my hitch-hiking experinces from there. Both times, I was heading to France.

First time around, it was a sunny winter day, and I must have started trying to get away just before noon. As I arrived, I saw I had some company, a young guy with a beard and a backpack. We exchanged a few words, and I extracted that he had already been waiting half an hour. For the rest with hitch-hiked at a distance of ten metres from each other, renouncing communication. He had a sign saying "Gent", me a sign saying "Brussels", but when finally, after over an hour, a car stopped, we both hopped into it and through conversation we found out we were both headed to Paris. He was Spanish, and 23 years old.
The man who took us on was a van driver from Bristol; "I transport all sorts of weird stuff, sometimes ice cream samples, sometimes helicopter parts." This time it was submarine surveillance equipment for a private Dutch company.
He would leave us in Lille.

Stupid enough, when arriving in the city, I decided to stick around with the guy. Hey, were going to the same destination, wouldn't it be fun to share a piece of the road?, was my fatally faulty logic.
It all started well enough, we had a perfect spot to hitch out of Lille, right at the motorway entrance. All we had to do was wait a little for a straight lift to the French capital city.
I let him make just one mistake and one thing led to another, and another, and, to cut a long story short, only two lifts, but three and a half hours later, with the dusk thickening around us, we had ended up in a village seemingly entirely deserted, if it was not for a few cows. We were about 23 km further in the right direction, and probably as many somewhere to the North or South away from the motorway.
The blanks of how this could happen exactly I let you fill in with your imagination. In any case, we could not, at that point, put off acknowledging the desperateness of our situation any longer, and found ourselves searching for a train station pretty quickly. 
From where -you guessed it-, we actually had no choice but to take a train BACK to Lille.
Nothing beats that as for frustration.
There is no frustration so utter and sublime.

Only through gritted teeth for having to "start from zero" I got myself to Paris the next day.
If that guy did, and how, we will never know.

Paris, 20ème

Fast forward six months, and I was stupid enough to try my luck again. 

Retrospectively, let me stipulate two rules for trying to hitch out of Amsterdam-Amstel.

Rule number one: Just when you have officially decided you gave up, and there materializes a lift -  only take that lift, if it goes straight where you need to be. If their destination is different from yours, say half-way there, expect to be in for more frustration.

Rule Number Two: Never ever let anyone take you to CALAIS.
When, after too many hours passed on constipated ring roads of Belgian cities at rush hour, we made it to Calais, it was 7 p.m., and the streets were deserted. I was desperate to get on with my trip, but how? Standing by the unlit roadside was hardly an option. The garage at which my driver had originally dropped me off, was deserted.
I went to the train station: No trains until the next morning 4 o'clock. I began to understand, there was no eschewing acquiescence to the fact I'd have to pass the night here, of all places, and I had better find a place to sleep.
Roaming the town centre for a bit, I tried to chat up two hippies clutching at each other in  tight embrace. When they turned their faces away from each other to look at me for a second, I saw these were absolutely riddled with artificial orifices plugged by sundry jewelry of all shapes and sizes. The couple just smiled at me dreamily, and then immediately went back to shoving tongues into one another's mouths. Pretty much the only other person I came across who looked approachable was some guy slouching at the side of the street, obviously struggling to perform the simple task of closing the zip of his backpack. He was drunk beyond repair, a rather endearing sight. Ever since my granddad drank himself to death, I have had a soft spot for drunkards.
I was lucky, he, too, was a traveller, had been to Africa, and to India, and the conversation got going quickly. In the ensuing half an hour, he asked me four times how the hell I got here, and every single time I explained where I had just hitch-hiked from, he exclaimed "Excellent!" and assured me I could sleep tonight at his girl-friend's. Given the drought of other options, it was worth a try sticking with him for now. On our way walking out of the town centre, he lost one of his shoes, which I subsequently helped him back into, and also, for sheer lack of balance, ended up rolling around on the floor a couple of times, with his money and mobile phone spilling onto the street. Each time I shoved it all back into his trouser pockets, and thrust out a helping hand in order to get him back onto his feet. He asked me another three times how the hell I got there in the first place. I was willing to explain anew.

His girl-friend kicked me out after a while, or well, I understood the presence of the randomly appearing, grimy-faced hitch-hiker was making her and her three small kids uncomfortable, so I slunk away out of my own accord. I stayed in the building though, and spent the night snugly on the floor below, in an empty sort of storage room, a door giving onto a ventilation shaft and some water pipes, with just enough space between the two to stretch out and crawl into my sleeping bag. I heard the wind howl in the night, and was happy to be inside, rolling around for another few hours of sleep.

The odyssee of the following day is too much to relate.  Once again, there I was, entangled in the entrails of Northern France, trying to get... where?
There? Back?

It did not matter anymore.

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at May 06, 2013 06:19

May 04, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 22

Hello everyone and welcome to the 40th edition of our popular weekly Travel Photography Competition. Have you already decided where you’d like to travel this year? If not, maybe our competition will help you make up your mind, as every week we show you three stunning places most definitely worth visiting.

If you have recently visited a beautiful place, we encourage you to share it with us by posting it on our Facebook page and if your photo will be among the three most “liked” shots, we will publish it on our website.

This week we’re reviewing pictures sent between 6th and 13th April.

The first winning shot was taken in Yorkshire, England, United Kingdom. This cracked old boat must have been there for a very long time!

Old boat in Yorkshire, UK - by Hodan Pictures

This unique picture was sent by one of our most regular contributors from England George Hodan. If you like his work visit his Facebook page Hodan Pictures and his website where you can download all his photos for free.

_________________________________

The second winning picture this week was taken at Pateira de Fermentelos in Portugal. It’s a natural lake located in the triangle between the Águeda, Aveiro and Oliveira do Bairro districts. It is the largest natural lake in the Iberian Peninsula (15 km perimeter) and it’s very rich in flora and fauna.

Pateira de Fermentelos, Portugal - by Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves

This great picture was sent by Bibi Anabela Cláudia Alves. If you like this photo, you should visit Bibi’s website.

_________________________________

And the last picture in this week’s selection was taken in Porto Germeno, Greece. It’s a beach resort area located in the Attica prefecture on the north-eastern coast of the Corinthian Gulf. Nearby you can find the fortress of Aigosthena, dating back to the 3rd century BC, which is considered one of the best-preserved ancient castles in Greece.

Porto Germeno, Greece - Vagelis Pikoulas

This stunning shots was sent by Vagelis Pikoulas, our regular Greek contributor. If you like this picture, go to Vagelis’ Flickr photostream for more.

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

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Filed under: *Photos*, Greece, Portugal, United Kingdom Tagged: boats, competition, England, Greece, photography, Portugal, travel, travel photography, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 04, 2013 19:56

A Girl and Her Thumb

The Tower of Silence

15-20th December, 2012, Yazd I see the sun rise over the desert as my train chugs into Yazd. The girls in my carriage quickly jump down from their bunks and begin wrapping themselves in headscarves, checking make-up and folding sheets, which an attendant soon comes to collect. I find the Silk Road Hotel close to […]

by Jo Magpie at May 04, 2013 16:57

May 01, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Why visit Salamanca, Spain?

Why visit Granada?

Granada, Spain  (154) - Palacios Nazaríes, Alcazar and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

Many are drawn to Granada for one simple reason: the stunning Moorish complex of the Alhambra. Part tranquil gardens, part resplendent palace, part imposing fortress, the Alhambra is a wonder of the modern world. It is a constant presence wherever you are in the city and many visitors simply never look beyond it. For those willing to look a little closer though, what they find might surprise. Put simply, Granada is cool. With its free tapas culture, abundant student population and quirky Moroccan tea houses, Granada is Andalusia with a twist, that simply cries out to be explored.

Granada rating

Granada: the facts

Granada, Spain  (171) - Close up of Catedral de Granada, as seen from Barrio El Albayzín

Granada is the capital of the Granada province which is within the larger autonomous community of Andalusia and is called home by 250,000 inhabitants. It sits at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and at the confluence of three rivers: the Beiro, the Darro and the Genil.

Founded during the Caliphate civil war of the 11th century due to its militarily defendable position, the village quickly grew into one of the most important cities of Al-Andalus (Moorish Spain). In 1228, The Nasrid Dynasty established the Emirate of Granada which was to remain in place for more than 200 years and their architectural influence is still felt in the city today. However, the tides of change were flowing against the Emirate and on 2nd January 1492, Emir Muhammad XII, the last Muslim ruler on the Iberian peninsular surrendered to the Los Reyes Católicos (‘The Catholic Monarchs’) Ferdinand II and Isabella I after defeat at the Battle of Granada.

Religious persecution soon followed as the new Catholic rulers set about Christianising its new lands. The Jews were forced to convert or were expelled in the very same year as victory was won. Muslims suffered humiliation and persecution and by 1501 were given the same choice. Granada fell into terminal decline that was not arrested until the 1830′s when the Romantic Movement’s interest in the restoration of Granada’s Islamic heritage heralded the arrival of tourism.

During the Spanish civil war Granada was seized by the Nationalists at the outbreak of hostilities. It is estimated that over 4000 people with leftist sympathetic were killed including Federico García Lorca, Granada’s most famous writer.

The climate in Granada is extremely sunny with little rainfall. The winters are generally mild with temperatures ranging from 1oC – 12oC and hot summers (17oC – 33oC).

Granada Now!

Modern day Granada’s economy is driven by the booming tourism industry. The University of Granada is one of the Spain’s largest, and most prestigious, and ensures a healthy student population and thus night-life all year round.

The most important city festival is the Feria del Corpus Christi which takes place in the week leading up to Corpus Christi (8th Sunday after Easter.) The festival takes place all over the city with a number of different events such as processions, flamenco acts and fireworks. The Festival de San Cecilio on 2nd February marks the day of the city’s patron saint and is celebrated with gastronomy contests and is great way to try out some of the local specialities.

Granada, Spain (58) - close up of typical Andalucian cortijo houses with courtyards, taken from Al Alhambra

written by: Jon

__________________________________________________________

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at May 01, 2013 19:13

April 29, 2013

A Girl and Her Thumb

Desert sands

11-14th December 2012, Qeshm Island We’re surfing the back of a black Toyota pick-up truck as it skirts the narrow road through the desert. We screech with delight as the wind drags our faces into maniacal grimaces. My hijab flies off my head, but I couldn’t care less. This island seems completely lawless. The black […]

by Jo Magpie at April 29, 2013 16:59

April 27, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 21

Hello everyone and welcome to the 39th edition of our weekly Travel Photography Competition. I’m sure the majority of you already know what it’s all about but just in case you’re new to the website, I will briefly explain that here at Hitch-Hikers’ Handbook we indulge in beautiful places; even more so if immortalised by excellent pictures. We also like promoting independent photographers and we’ve created this competition to give them the chance to show their work to a larger audience and to give us travellers some ideas for future escapades.

This week we’re reviewing pictures published on our Facebook page between 29th March and 5th April.

The first winner this week is this stunning shot taken atop Max Patch (1,411 m) in the Bald Mountains, North Carolina, USA. The Bald Mountains, which are a part of the Blue Ridge Mountain Province of the Southern Appalachians, rise along the border between North Carolina and Tennessee. So named due to the frequent occurrence of grassy bald patches on their peaks. The highest summit in this range is Big Bald, which rises to an elevation of 1,681 m.

WiredNomads - camping in the mountains in North Carolina, USA

This lovely photo was sent by WiredNomads. It looks like a perfect camping spot, doesn’t it? If you like it, check out more pictures from their trip here.

_________________________________

The second winner in this week’s competition came all the way from Vietnam and shows a beautiful sunset over the Kê Gà Cape in Hàm Thuận Nam district of Bình Thuận province in southern Vietnam. The lighthouse, which is 35 m tall, was built in 1897 and was first used in 1900. Now it’s a popular tourist attraction of the area.

Duc Vien - Sunset over the Kega Cape, Vietnam

This great shot was sent by Duc Vien from Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. If you like this shot, check out Duc’s website.

_________________________________

And the last photo for today was taken in Morocco. What I really like about this picture is the beautiful Moorish architecture immersed in delicate light, bringing the promise of the mid-day North-African heat and the man on the bicycle tirelessly pedalling onward.

KOEphotography - Morocco, man on the bicycle pedalling under an arch

This beautiful photo was sent by the very talented photographer Alex Köhl who lives in Chinon, France. You can see more pictures from his trip to Morocco here. If you like his work, subscribe to his Facebook page KOEphotography.

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

__________________________________________________________

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at April 27, 2013 17:24

April 26, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Staying in Málaga: Useful tips & links

Accommodation 

Finding accommodation in Granada need not be stressful as there are a wealth of options to cater to all tastes and budgets. Below we list some of the cheapest options, with budget travellers in mind.

Granada, Spain  (127) - The domed Parroquia de San Justo y Pastor, taken from Calle San Jerónimo

Funky Backpackers (Conde de las Infantas, 15-17) is centrally located, only a few minutes walk from the Cathedral, and offers Wi-Fi as well as a host of activities for those looking to meet fellow travellers. 6 bed mixed dorms are the cheapest option (9€-11€) but there are slightly more expensive dorms (4/5 mixed: 10€-16€ and female only:13€-15€) available.

HostelOne Granada (Calle Azhuma 30) is perhaps a little further out of the centre, but it is still within walking distance of the major attractions and has a shared kitchen and a charming rooftop garden in which to relax. Basic 6 Bed Mixed Dorm cost between (9€-11€) and are the cheapest option. Other dorm rooms include Standard 6 Bed Mixed & Female Dorms (12€-14€).

Oasis Backpackers Hostel Granada (Placeta correo viejo, 3) is situated amongst the narrow winding streets of El Albayzín so it is an ideal place from which to explore the city on foot. Wi-Fi and breakfast are both available and the highlight is probably the relaxing patio with a BBQ, a great place to make new friends. 10 Bed Mixed Dorm (10€-14€) is great for penny-pinchers, although there is a variety of other dorm options with the price increasing as the size gets smaller.

Going Out

Granada, Spain  (167) - Corner bar on Plaza Cementerio de San Nicolas in Barrio El Albayzín

Granada is a very popular Erasmus destination, which ensures the most active night-life anywhere in Andalucía outside of Sevilla. As it’s typically for Spain, the bars and clubs fill up very late, generally starting to get busy around 12 pm; restaurants tend to open their doors at around 8 pm.

  • Located to the south of the city centre, Calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcon is lined with bars and is extremely popular with the city’s student population. The surrounding streets also play host to the traditional Spanish ‘botellon’ with groups of young people warming up for the evening by drinking on the streets first.

  • The area around Plaza Nueva is slightly more upmarket, mature and popular with tourists and is particularly busy in summer, with people taking advantage of the weather to sit at one of the many terraces on offer. The square is one of the traditional homes of high quality tapas in the city and there are also a number of bars with live music.

  • The eclectic Calle Elvira & Carrera del Darro are popular bar streets very close to Plaza Nueva. They are popular with tourists so expect generally higher prices and a slightly older crowd.

  • Calle Calderia Nueva is one of the roads leading off Calle Elvira and is popularly known as ‘La Calle de Las Teterias’ (The Street of the Tea Rooms). As the name suggests the street is packed full of Moroccan style tea rooms, ideal for relaxed evenings with candles, cushions and a streaming brew.

Things to try and buy

Granada, Spain  (173) - Bright and colourful lights of a light shop

Granadan cuisine is quite typical of Andalucia with staples such as gazpacho soup and grilled sea food available in almost all restaurants. However, for those looking to try local specialities Tortilla Sacromonte, a Spanish omelette with a local twist, is a good place to start. Jamón de Trevélez, ham that is cured in the snow of the mountain top villages surrounding the city, is unique to the region and is often served with other local specialities such as Papas a lo Pobre (potatoes and green peppers) and Migas (fried bread) to make a filling meal. In the chilly winter months Olla de San Antón, a pork, bean and potato stew, is the perfect stodge food.

Granada is also one of the few cities in coffee drinking Spain where tea is popular. So, if you are fan of a cuppa, head to one of the many Moroccan tea houses where you can try some green, black, white and red varieties.

Marquetry pottery (made by applying pieces of veneer to form decorative patterns) is also considered something of a local speciality and is heavy influenced by Moorish designs and makes an interesting souvenir.

Internet

Here a few places that offer WiFi connections:

written by: Jon

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by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at April 26, 2013 20:21

Compared With Me You Are All Tourists

This is Not a Cocktail Bar


CK One à la Tunisienne
I had to do a double-take, when I first saw this in a village in Tunisia, because it looked like a collection of whiskey bottles. Taking a closer look I realized that this was not in fact an alcohol bar, but an assemblage of perfume bottles. You can come with your own small receptacle to the local kiosk and buy a shot of your favourite fragrance.



Colonial architecture in the centre of Bizerte





The day before, a man had shown us on the market in Bizerte how to artisanally distill perfume from jasmin flowers with a simple metal contraption.








Православная церковь


Another curiosity we came across that day was this: On the outskirts of Bizerte, when hitch-hiking away, we saw the Russian Orthodox church shown here. A man stepped out of the door, closing the gate behind himself by key. His stark blue eyes and fair skin provoked me to chance speaking in Russian to him. He said there was a small Russian community in Bizerte and in Tunis, made up of individuals all exercising different professions. Himself, he claimed to be the only Russian sailor in Bizerte, working as a fisherman.


I was surprised to see a Russian church, although my German travel partner aptly remarked, "Isn't it kind of normal to have different nationalities represented in every country, and also exercising their faith?". I guess I am strangely conditionned by Turkey, where, despite a not negligibly presence of Russians in certain areas, you would never see a church of such typical architecture. The American protestant community in Ankara for example rents the bottom floor of a normal residental building, and only a plastic board discloses the fact that it functions as a church.

A part of Bizerte's port
The French stayed here until 1963, six years after Tunisian independance.



When reading the commemorative plate on the outside of the church we found out that indeed, the unusual architectural sight had a special history. It was built in the 1930s as a monument for the Black Sea Fleet of the Russian Tsar. The fleet had escaped the Bolshevik revolution, and via the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles crossed the Mediterranean. Its last stop ever, in the early 1920s, became this Tunisian port, at the time under French occupation.

Most of the sailors were later granted political asylum in France, whereas the ships were restituted to the Soviet government, although in an already irreparable state.

Bizerte City Square

by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at April 26, 2013 05:08

A village in the Buffer Zone

One of the few remaining inhabited places on Cyprus whose population is still very much mixed is the village Pyla, which today lies in the UN buffer zone. The village has always been bi-communal, with Cypriote Greeks just slightly more represented than Cypriote Turks, although it is the Turks here who own most of the surrounding land.
During the violent events which repeatedly shook the island from 1962 to1974, Pyla remained quiet. The inhabitants of Pyla seemed to have a tacit contract that peace would be maintained. Pyla was not totally unique of course, there were a few other villages where no violence ever erupted between communities. Potamya near Nicosia was cited to me as an example. Today it is also situated in the buffer zone.

A Lusignan cathedral converted to a mosque, Lefkoşa  
As for the case of Pyla, unfortunately that peace was kept only on the surface. Underneath, tensions were seething. The appearance of calm did not mean that the people of Pyla were innocent. While pogroms were raging elsewhere, some of the Greeks of Pyla went to those areas to participate in the assaults on Turks. These individuals would come back boasting about what they looted, and whom they raped, so inevitably everyone else in Pyla would know. This created considerable strain locally on the inter-ethnic relations.
In 1974, with Turkish warplanes bombing Pyla, most Greeks left, thinking that the Turkish government would take over. When shortly after UN forces moved in, they came back.

Armed with that much history, learnt from a few articles I read as well as from the stories of my articulate Couchsurfing host Nikolay in nearby Larnaca, I make a plan to visit the intriguing village. I get on the bus; with me, there are some students from abroad, Nigerians maybe, or Ghanians. Their student residence is on the outskirts of Pyla, that is where they all get off. The entire surrounding area has been taken over by foreigners: Blocks of holiday houses, built by Europeans, defigure the landscape the length of a few kilometers all the way down to the sea.  
I start a conversation with the bus driver. He is a Cypriote Turk, who, he tells me, left with his family in 1974, and who came back some five years ago for economic reasons; he could not find a job in the North.

When I arrive in the town center, one of the first things I remark is that small Pyla is actually quite picturesque. Small streets are lined by white-washed houses with climbing plants at the gate, further down, at a short distance, a large new church invites a visit with open doors, while at the very village square the minaret of a mosque can be seen just behind the pub with the Efes sign. Right in front of it UN jeeps are parked. The UN office is in another corner of the square. In its window a poster reads, "Hunting in the buffer zone is strictly forbidden. Hunters in camouflage carrying guns are easily mistaken for soldiers. They may draw fire from either side." The message is repeated in Greek and in Turkish.

The street signs show the word "street" in two languages, "odos" and "sokak".  The village also has two mayors, the "Türk Muhtarlığı Pile" being situated right here on the square, "Pile" being the Turkified version of the village's name. The most common theory as to the etymologic origin of the name is that it may come from the Greek word "pyli", "passage",  the village occupying a strategic position on the transition point from the coastal area to the central plain.
There is a Turkish primary school in the village somewhere, I was told. At the street corner a kasapadvertises both in Turkish and English. The shop keeper may well know that the Greeks anyway prefer to buy from a Greek butcher. As far as I have heard Greek landlords confine themselves to renting out to Greek tenants here, in the same way that Turkish landlords let only to Turks. Despite appearances, it is a bit of a segregated world.

One anecdote Nikolay relayed to me was the one of a Turkish man who always used to come to the Greek tavern. Everyone in Pyla thought he was a spy. Nikolay related it this way: "It may sound incredible, but that is really what people were saying to each other. Personally I don´t think so, I think he was just not very clear in the head. He was probably ever so slightly mentally handicapped, and he also had a gambling problem, that is why he always came there."

The Buffer Zone is a duty-free zone, and despite any existing inter-communal tensions, this incited people to cooperate economically, it simply being in everyone's best interest. Before the border opened in 2003, Pyla used to be famous for its "fish taverns". At that time, the Turks of Pyla were among the few Cypriotes who could go and seek employment on both sides of the divided island. So the Turks of Pyla engaged in trade, bringing cheap fish from the Northern side, delivering it to the Greeks of Pyla who owned restaurants who quickly became famous across Greek Cyprus. The Greek restaurant owners in return would employ Turkish waiters, because it came in handy should a fight break out among customers. A Greek waiter could not possibly hope to meddle in a dispute  involving one or more hot-headed Turks, a Turkish waiter however might try!
While the Greeks had restaurants at the time, the Turks were shops owners. Along with the fish they contrabanded fake brand-name products, clothing or perfums. Pyla was the place to go if you wanted cheap clothes, and also for alcohol and cigarettes. 
Then, in 2003, the border opened, the prices in the North went up, and all that business collapsed.

In the few afternoon hours that I spend in Pyla, there is almost no one on the street. People seem to drive their cars around rather than walk. The woman in the shop advertising "açık" on its door, from which I buy some Ülker chocolate, graces me with a big smile when I change to her mothertongue Turkish after she has not understood my question in English, a language widely understood on the Greek side of Cyprus. I am looking for directions for Pyla's two historical sights: A Venetian tower, and an apparently very well preserved Lusignan chapel (most Lusignan architecture being located on the territory of the Northern government, it has been left to dilapidate).
This woman, and another man later in the pub where I ask something about the bus time table, are my first contacts with Turkish Cypriotes. Curiously I try to analyse their accents and physiognimies. Of course, a couple of weeks later I am going to traverse the border to the North and the importance I attribute to these individuals, right now constituting such peculiar objects of interest which I hold against the light and muster with much eagerness, will then be washed away by the countless experiences and conversations I will have with other Cypriote Turks.


For now I go around finding a place to wait for the bus to come, and just as I sit down with my bag at my feet, the evening call to prayer resounds. It does so very timidly, as if not to disturb anyone, and I would almost not have noticed it. The sound of the television coming out of the door of an empty restaurant on the other side of the square seems to be just as loud!




Such are the rather tame adventures of the day, I muse as I snack on the feta cheese-flavoured crisps that I got together with the Keos beer from the "Antigone" supermarket on the square. Not really that exciting, but I am glad I made the effort.





by Ilham Bint Sirin (noreply@blogger.com) at April 26, 2013 05:04

April 23, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Street Art in Valencia, Spain

Granada is one of those must-see places in Spain, which if omitted makes every trip to Andalusia incomplete. For many, one of the main reasons for going to Granada is to lay their eyes on Alhambra, a stunning Moorish palace and citadel towering above the city. Although this relic of Spain’s long bygone Islamic past is a well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage monument, it shouldn’t be the only reason to visit, as Granada has much more to offer.

Granada, Spain  (163) - Close up of  Palacios Nazaríes and Palacio de Carlos V of La Alhambra, taken from Mirador de San Nicolás in Barrio El Albayzín

Every conscientious visitor can’t forget about its sun-bathed squares and winding cobbled-stone streets of the Moorish medieval district of Albayzín, whose miradors (viewing points) offer truly amazing perspectives of the city.

Granada, Spain  (148) - The Palacios Nazaríes high on the hill as seen from Placeta de Toqueros

For the more active, Granada offers picturesque hikes in the nearby Sierra Nevada mountain range, which surround the city.

Granada, Spain (79) - the view towards the Sierra Nevada mountain range and the town of Cenes de la Vega, taken from the Alcazaba of Al Alhambra

And since we are in Andalusia, all culinary-lovers will be in heaven after having discovered the abundance of tasty and free tapas.

As you may expect, reading the title of this article, that’s not all… Although Granada is one of the oldest cities on the Iberian Peninsula, here tradition and modernity have merged to create a surprisingly well-matched couple.  Here graffiti isn’t offensive, destructive and in bad taste; it’s quite the opposite. Granada’s street art is inspiring, attractive and nicely stands in opposition to the more traditional face of the city.

Granada, Spain (110) – Street art

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Granada, Spain (109) – Street art

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Granada, Spain (115) – Street art

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-115-street-art.jpg?w=200" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-115-street-art.jpg?w=640" width="100" height="150" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-115-street-art.jpg?w=100&h=150" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (115) - Street art" />

Granada, Spain (112) – Street art

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-112-street-art.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-112-street-art.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-112-street-art.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (112) - Street art" />

Street art, Granada, Spain

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Granada, Spain (111) – Street art

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Granada, Spain (116) – Street art

" data-medium-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-116-street-art.jpg?w=300" data-large-file="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-116-street-art.jpg?w=640" width="150" height="100" src="http://hitchhikershandbook.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/granada-spain-116-street-art.jpg?w=150&h=100" class="attachment-thumbnail" alt="Granada, Spain (116) - Street art" />

The best examples of creative street art can be found on Cuesta del Caidero street, which leads down the hill from La Alhambra in the Realejo – San Matias district, and in the Albayzín district.

written by: Ania

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Filed under: *Photos*, A dedo por la Península Ibérica 2012, Spain, _trips_ Tagged: art, city, graffiti, Granada, photography, Spain, street art, travel, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at April 23, 2013 12:05

April 21, 2013

Hitch-Hikers' Handbook

Week 20

Hello everyone and welcome to the 38th edition of our Travel Photography Competition. As happens every week, we’ve got for you three beautiful photos, sent by our contributing photographers from around the world, which got the largest number of votes. In this edition we are reviewing shots published on our Facebook page between  21th and 28th March.

The first winner was taken in Leça da Palmeira, Porto, Portugal and shows Farol da Boa Nova lighthouse. This beautiful building, which is 46 m high, was erected in 1926.

Manuel Meneses - Leça da Palmeira, Porto, Portugal

This stunning picture was sent by our regular contributor, Manuel Meneses from Porto, Portugal. If you like it, make sure you pay a visit to his Facebook page ManuelMeneses | Fotografia.

_________________________________

The second picture, with an equal number of votes, comes from Greece and was taken in Alepochori, a village located in the Ilia regional unit.

Vagelis Pikoulas - Alepochori, Greece

It was taken by one of our longest-participating contributors, Vagelis Pikoulas from Greece.

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And the last photo in this week’s selection shows Aurora Australis over the Hazard Mountains, Tasmania, Australia. Aurora Australis is the southern counterpart of the northern lights phenomenon, which is observed in the northern hemisphere. The jaw-dropping spectacle of light and colour is nothing more than energy charged particles, coming from the solar wind, which collide with atoms in the high altitude atmosphere when pulled towards the Earth by its magnetic field. The effect is amazing and it doesn’t surprise me that in medieval Europe people believed it to be a sign from God. It’s truly a divine sight!

Ben Fewtrell - Photojourney - Aurora Australis over the Hazard Mountains, Tasmania, Australia

Ben Fewtrell, who sent us this amazing shot, says: “I just witnessed one of the most amazing things I have EVER seen in my life. (…) Overnight there was an Aurora Australis, it’s like a flare up in the solar system and it creates the most amazing night skies but you need to be out of and away from any major cities to see it… I have so many shots”.

Thanks for this amazing sample, Ben! If you like Ben’s work, visit his website onthreelegs.com.

Thanks to everyone who participated in this week’s edition of the competition, either by sending or by voting for the pictures! We wish you nice end of the weekend!

***

What are Travel Photography Contribution Weeks?

Each week we publish the three pictures which got the most “likes” on our Facebook page giving the photographers the credit they deserve.

Visit our Travel Photography page to see all the previous winning photos and find out how you can participate.

If your pictures are among this week’s selection, feel free to use one of our HTML snippets on your website and tell your friends about it.

Keep sending your photos and travel safe!

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Filed under: *Photos*, Australia, Greece, Portugal Tagged: Australia, competition, Greece, photography, Portugal, travel, travelling

by Hitch-Hikers' Handbook at April 21, 2013 13:15

April 20, 2013

kimmieslife

Heading South

It seems that if I stay in one place for longer than one week, my mind works overtime and I come up with an idea that blossoms into a plan.  I stayed at the alpaca farm for five weeks.  Imagine!
"It's cold in winter in Europe, maybe I'll try to go somewhere warm.  Morocco?  Yes.  Actually, from there I could go south to a few countries.  I know, I could go to the whole of West Africa!"

So there was my plan: to head South.  And here's the story of how it went.


First stop, Cati's place in the Bavarian countryside.  Got to spend some good quality time with one of my best travel friends.  Made some money cleaning a rich man's house.

Next stop, Prague.  Hitching there meant I could experience the countrysides of the Czech Republic.  I walked for a while and the pain of my backpack was completely outweighed by the beauty of the scenery.  On my last ride into the centre, I bumped into another hitchhiker for the first time in my life.  We got to the city together, met his Syrian girlfriend, then discovered some sights together.  What a lovely little international group that was!



I had two hosts during my stay: Lydi, an anarchist living in a kind of organised squat and trying to change the world; and Anna, an artist in every sense of the word (painter, drawer, pianist, guitarist, singer...).  Two very interesting, and very different, people!

My first full day in Prague started in the square famous for the revolution of 1989.  I started by circling this square.  How do you circle a square, you may ask?!  By walking up and down continuously for more than an hour, Eugene the Ukulele in hand, looking at every corner and every step whilst fighting for courage to sit down and play some music.  I sat down, eventually.  Fear: overcome!
One minute felt like a lifetime.  Two minutes felt like ten lifetimes.
"I should just get up and leave.  I'm not good enough.  This is silly."
After what felt like 10000 lifetimes (some maths for you to do there), an old man bent down and threw some coins into my case.  His old, bloodshot eyes looked into mine and he mumbled something I couldn't hear.  He made me think of my Grandad at home.
There I was, singing and playing 'Let It Be' by The Beatles (from my hometown in England), in the huge public square famous for the revolution of '89, with someone just like my Grandad giving me some money.  That moment will stay with me forever.
Paul


Vienna was next.  On the way there I got dropped off by one man on the emergency lane of the highway.  The cars were going so fast I knew I would be there for a long time.  But within ten minutes somebody screeched to a stop just ahead of me.  He was a happy man and his name was Paul.


Busking in Vienna didn't go too well.  It was too loud and busy to find a good place to play.  I gave up and spent my time with my Couchsurfing host Nicki. We walked to the top of a hill and saw a foggy view of the city, then got lost in the night in Schoenbrunn Palace Gardens and had to listen to an ordinary woman secretly practicing singing opera.





Whilst hitching to Salzburg I met the man who is responsible for 90% of the world's agricultural knives (he was so rich he bought me a luxury breakfast), a woman who looked very much like Barbara Streisand, and a skydiving instructor called Gurt.





Salzburg is definitely one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to.  I took more pictures in this small town than I take in months anywhere else!  My CS host Katrin (one of only 319000 people from Iceland - pretty rare to meet one come to think of it!) took me out in the evening with her friends.  We drank beer, lots of it.





Lake Chiemsee was next.  I had been told by every German I've ever met to go here.  I was a little late in the year though... the weather was rainy and foggy; I couldn't see a thing.  On the up side, a stayed with a man called Luke who was a real-life version of Bear Grylls.  He gave me a knife and a survival book as a souvenir.




I was supposed to be going to Innsbruck after that, but I was let down by a CS host last minute.  I changed my plans and headed to Zurich but had nowhere to sleep so went to the airport.  But then I got a message off a guy from CS called David, originally from Nigeria.  He picked me up then a few minutes into the ride home said:
"Some people get scared of black people, you ok though? You sure?"
David
Broke my heart a little, that did.
I only intended to stay for one night but ended up staying for four.  David and his friend Roland showed me the true meaning of Nigerian hospitality.
David explained to me how hard it was for him when he first moved to Europe alone.  Nobody said hello, nobody even looked in your face;
"It doesn't hurt to say hello.  It doesn't cut your skin.  There's no blood.  It's just a word"
I completely agree with him.  In the "rich" countries of the world people are scared of each other.  It's so apparent coming from a place where people have no possessions to a place where people have "everything".
Roland
David and Roland loved my travel stories too, especially my plans for Africa.  Roland kept telling everyone we met:
"She gonna visit Africa and hang with the people.  She don't want no hotel or car, she gonna see the real place."
When I left, they both woke up at the crack of dawn to drop me off at a good hitchhiking spot.
"You sure you gonna be ok?  If you still here later we will pick you up."
"No, no, don't be silly, I will be ok, stop worrying!"  I replied.
Then I was stood there in a highway service station at rush hour with two big Nigerian men jumping and excitedly giggling;
"If you got that, that... that heart, then you gonna make it!  You gonna make it!!"
After that, Nigeria was made a definite on my list for Africa.



I hadn't made it yet, there were still two big countries to get through!  That will be in my next post...

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:59

An Old Soul

On my travels I am lucky enough to meet some incredible people.  People with so much humour, people with an incredible story, people with a fascinating future.  For me, this is the main reason I love travelling.  I am constantly being inspired by others; which encourages me to have more faith in the world, to have bigger dreams and to always hope for more.
Sometimes though, I am even luckier.  I meet somebody who I will forever call a friend.  A deeper connection is made; we are on the exact same wavelength and we both know it.

John.  Born in the USA.  32 years old.  Hilarious.  Honest.  Hairy.
From day one our conversations were unstoppable.  Every one was either filled with jokes, or was meaningful and undoubtedly honest.

My Americn accent grew from stupid-blond-girl to bearded-cowboy; whilst John's British accent was a high-pitched cockney chavs.  It became impossible to have a conversation wih either of us without having these accents involved.

Something else I owe John for is the music lessons.  He was a natural guitarist.  Picked one up in his youth and played songs without even thinking.  He taught me how to play the ukulele without even knowing himself.  He taught me how to listen to music and interpret it in my own way.  We practised together so many days and nights; one month at the farm with him and I felt confident enough to busk in the streets in the next cities I visited.

One thing that made John even more special was his honesty.  All the spare time we had together made long conversations our favourite hobby.  He told me about his past; about being gay and not being able to tell anyone until he was 25 years old.  About his family not accepting it.
He told me about the death of his father two years previous: 40 years old, deciding last minute to attend a school reunion, then falling down some stairs at the school and dying instantly.  John told me how it felt.  How nobody told him, nobody ever said the words, but he knew that his dad had died.
He told me about his siblings and how they struggled so much with the death of their dad.  They each received a small inheritance from him.  John spent it on this trip to Europe.  His brothers and sisters spent it on heroin.  He visited them before he left for Europe and couldn't believe the state they were in.  He said that he would easily have spent it on heroin too, but he knew he needed something more than that to show to his dad.  He knew what his dad was thinking about his decision. "Good for you John. Live your life, live your dreams!"

John had ideas about travelling.  About meeting amazing people, feeling inspired and being happy.  He loved my stories.  His eyes lit up when I told him of my adventures.

Him and Steven ran out of money a month or so back, so they felt restricted in what they could do.  I wish they had stayed and used the ideas I gave them, but a couple of days after I left the farm, they went to the US embassy who sent them home the next day.

Travelling is always a learning curve, as I well know myself, but with John's situation at home I can't help but worry.  I don't want him to get influenced, to get dragged down.  I hope he has enough courage to look after himself instead of putting everyone else before him.  I really believe that he will do what is right for him, it just breaks my heart to think otherwise.  He has ideas and passion, he has life in his eyes, dreams to be lived, and an unforgettable smile that shows all this.  I am so lucky to have met John.  He inspired me more than he will ever know.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:59

Alpaca time!!!



In the middle of the vineyards in the countryside of Western Germany, there sits a little farm complete with thirty alpacas.  How they got there; who knows?  Somehow I got lucky and got to spend five weeks working with them!



When I first signed up to the Workaway website, I got pretty obsessed, sent out way too many messages and got way too many replies.  Staying on the Ashton's farm in France for so long made all my travel plans change, so I arrived at the alpaca farm in Altenbamberg around four months later than originally planned!





Julie

Billie


Billie and her daughter Julie owned the farm, but didn't always have enough time to look after the alpacas themselves.








So that's where we came in:
John and Steven, a couple from the USA.  They had moved to Germany to find work teaching English, however it didn't quite work out as planned and they were left with no money and an expiring visa.  Billie took pity on them and said they could stay as long as they needed.
Amy, from New Zealand, came a couple of weeks later and fitted in perfectly... even with that funny accent.



Our jobs for the day were to let the alpacas into their fields, feed and give them water, and then clean out the stables ready for them coming back inside in the evening.  Sometimes we would just stare at them for half an hour or so... they were fascinating creatures, totally timid and freaked out like crazy if you tried to touch them.


Me feeding Purple Percy!
Purple Percy was different though.  Being purple in the alpaca world is like being ginger in the human world.  You're an outsider... so you turn to others who show you kindness.  In this instance it meant Percy wasn't so afraid of us.
<<< Evidence is in this picture!

Other jobs we did included cutting down thousands of bramble bushes (and a few rose bushes by accident), stacking hundreds of logs for the fire, and taking the dogs Mellow and Petu on walks (which was pretty impossible when they walked at completely different paces)!


Just to add to our workload, we asked at the local vineyard for a job picking grapes. Of course, the answer was yes and so for about two weeks we were working more or less ten hours per day. A group of Polish people were shipped over to do the work too, which means that wages were low, and it didn't help that there is no minimum wage in Germany! 6.50 euros per hour. The bad back at the end of every day made the money seem even less. But this feeling was countacted when the grape lady would give us a couple bottles of wine at the end of some nights; we would head to the top of the hills and sit down, bottle in hand, discussing the world and watching the distant wind turbines turn round and round. Beautiful!


At the Medieval Fest


At the farm; we were often treated to some kind of party. Germans like to call them "fests".... whether it be Hof Fest, or Medieval Fest, or Let's-have-a-BBQ-and-call-it-a-fest Fest. Mainly they involved lots of beer drinking, sausage eating, music, dogs or horses or any kind of animal jumping around, and on the odd occasion a bongo drum playing session!






I stayed at the farm for a total of around five weeks before moving on. I wish I could write more here about my time there, but I just don't have enough time on the internet anymore, and I'm getting so far behind on my blog posts! All I will say is that Billie and Julie were incredibly kind and fun to be around; and I made some lasting friendships with John, Steven, and Amy... so my experience is definitely one I will never forget!

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:59

I think I auto-stopped through Germany

After spending a few days at Ellie and Mike's in Amsterdam after the Olympics, it was time to move on.  I had already promised to be in Munich the following week to house/cat-sit for somebody on Couchsurfing.  So a quick-stop tour of Germany it had to be.


First stop Düsseldorf.  Forgive me, I can't remember how I got there, it was months ago now!  Hitchhiking ("Autostop" in most other languages), yes. Story, no.

My hosts Robert and Jenni met me at the main station and before I knew it we were on our way to their friends place for a barbeque.  I was treated to my first German sausage and first German beer... among other food, most of which I didn't have a clue of what it actually was.

The following day, Robert and Jenni had everything planned out: a bike ride around the city taking in the sights, then a few hours swimming in the river Rhine and lounging on "Paradise Beach".  I think the cargo ships going by are the reason for the word 'paradise'.  Honestly though, it was the nicest (and first) beach on a river I have ever seen.

Jenni had to work that night, so me and Robert had dinner together at home.  He had super intelligent opinions on politics and world affairs and even had ideas on how to make changes.  He really believed in a consumer democracy; where everything you buy gives you a vote.  For example; buying organic food votes against huge food corporations, therefore they can't affect farming and don't control prices (for instance, the reason why a burger at McDonalds is cheaper than buying fresh fruit and vegetables).  He also had a website where he posts about subjects like this, as well as fun topics and activities to keep it lively.

That evening we went on another bike ride to see the city by night.  We had a few beers in a popular spot before heading home.

With Couchsurfing, it's so easy to only ask people with hundreds of references for a couch, because without even thinking you know they will be a great host.  But as Robert and Jenni showed me, it is definitely worth staying with new members of the website.  They were so hospitable and put so much effort into making my trip memorable.  Obviously, that was also because they are amazing people too.


The next morning they made me breakfast before I headed off to the next city; Cologne (Köln).  I met my host Laura on arrival.  One of the first things she said to me was that she was so hot the night before that she put her t-shirt in the freezer.  From that moment on I thought she was awesome.

We walked around the city taking in the sights; namely the cathedral and the ice-cream which had fallen from the sky.  We then visited her friend who lived nearby.  She was a tiny girl who looked about 14 years old.  She had a baby and a Latin American husband, so I was relieved to find out she was actually 22.  They were really poor; he couldn't find work because of his nationality and visa, and she couldn't find work because she needed to breast feed because they couldn't afford a fridge to keep milk.  Wow.  This just adds to the big list of people I've recently met who confirm that country borders suck.  Despite all this, they offered me a beer.  I politely refused.

We then went back to Laura's place for the evening, accompanied by another friend of hers, Sandra.  We sat on the roof (not a roof you would imagine is sit-able, just a normal tiled slanted roof) drinking beer and talking about travels.  Sandra was in the process of building a boat with her boyfriend.  They learned the skills and techniques at a Workaway somewhere in Germany.  Their plan is to travel the length of the Danube then head West in the Mediterranean to then go round ending in the North of Germany... altogether lasting a few years.  Now that's ambition!  What an awesome idea, I definitely need to do something like that one day!  They have a website where they share their story and, at the moment, the whole boat-building process: www.mutanttravel.com

One night with Laura definitely wasn't enough.  I will have to return one day to spend more time with this hilarious girl.  That night we fell asleep to the audiobook for one of the Harry Potter books; of which Laura assures me is purely to improve her English.


I was up at the crack of dawn to start hitching to Frankfurt, 200km away.  Again, I can't remember one single part of the hitching trip.  Either somebody drugged me or it was just too long ago to remember.  All I know is that it was simple and fast.  I met my host outside his apartment at 5pm.  When I say met, I mean scared to death as he jumped round the corner at me.  His name was Meez, originally from Lebanon.  He treated me to pizza at a restaurant that night and we walked around the local area before heading home to watch a film, complete with a bowl full of popcorn.

Meez worked during the daytime so I was left to my own devices the following day.  I took the chance to do what I always do; get completely lost.  I finally found my way to the centre which was filled with expensive shops which I didn't even bother to look in.  I found a big public square complete with a fountain, a very comfortable bench, and the perfect setting to people watch.

When he had finished work, Meez met up with me and took me on a tour of what Frankfurt has to offer.  We walked along the banks of the Rhine and then headed to another kind of bank; the banking centre of Europe.  Huge skyscrapers and a massive € sign were a dead giveaway.  Naturally, there was a protesting camp right outside.  Namely, Occupy Frankfurt.  Meez said the only people left were druggies, so to prove him wrong I went to talk to them.  One second into the conversation I knew he was right.  I look around hoping to see somebody without a shaky jaw, but it didn't happen.  What a disappointment.

I remember one of the reasons people at Occupy Liverpool found it difficult was the amount of vulnerable and homeless.  We wanted our doors to be open to everyone; we had to given that we were fighting for a different system built on equality and fairness.  But we were just normal people, not therapists or psychologists like some of these people needed.  Maybe if we had carried on with Occupy, everybody would have been disenchanted and left, except from those who had nowhere else to go.  Occupy Liverpool might have become just like Frankfurt.

Anyway, we ended our night with conversation and another film.  Then it was an early night for me; I had to be up first thing in the morning to get to Munich.


Ok, so now I remember something unique about this particular trip.  I had to get a short bus ride to where I needed to begin hitching.  Only the short ride turned out to be quite long.  Cut the long story short... You know you're a real hitchhiker when you've had a poo in a forest next to a motorway.

I got a ride after a few minutes waiting which took me ten minutes down the motorway to the nearest service station.  Then five minutes later I got a ride all the way to Munich!  Awesome!  The lady even invited me to stay at her house in the future!


I had organised to stay at an old friends place that night; Lisa, who I met in the hostel I worked at in Montego Bay in Jamaica last year.  She had a baby boy since then, so it was lovely to meet him and catch up with Lisa over some food and drinks.  She was going on holiday after that so the following day I moved to Ludwig's house.  He and his family were going on holiday in a few days so they needed somebody to look after their cat.

Here's where the craziness comes in.  They had a little boy, I think he was 5 years old.  After being there for a few hours, he urinated on the floor in front of me.  Then later on in the day, he had a poo on the floor in the bedroom I was sleeping in.  Every morning he climbed onto my bed shouting "Aufwachen, aufwachen!" ("Wake up, wake up!")  One day he urinated all over the couch... When his mother shouted at him he replied "Well the cat does it too!"  For me, he was way too much to handle, his scream was so frequent and annoying that for the rest of my stay I avoided the house as much as I could.


Once they had left for their holiday, I messaged a few people on Couchsurfing to see if anybody wanted to hang out.  A girl named Ale messaged straight back and within a few hours I was on my way to a party.  She was originally from Venezuela, and so were most of the other people at the party... so naturally it was a night full of laughter.  We said goodbye at the end of the night then I asked some people nearby where the nearest subway station was.
"There is no transport at this time of night."
"Come with us, we are going to a house party!"
So there I was, somewhere in Munich in the middle of the night, walking to a house with a group of Mexicans and Venezuelans.  The house turned out to be a tiny room complete with a bed, a couch and a kitchen sink.  Everyone squeezed in and before I knew it we were knocking back tequila.  I was on the first train in the morning and got into bed at 6am.


Ale and I hung out for the rest of the week; going out for food, watching films together, a few nights out, sunbathing in the naked park (mainly just full of old men), as well as attending a Couchsurfing meeting where we just stared at everyone and guessed between ourselves where each person came from.  All in all, I completely admired Ale.  She loved to travel just like I did (with no money, living with only basics) and she was also established in many parts of her life (she had just finished a masters degree in Biology, she had worked researching wild animals in jungles around the world, she was super sporty and took part in three week long triathlons, and she was really intelligent when it came to any political or social issue.  On top of all that she was funny, and really easy to talk to.  Everyone else thought it too; there's not many others quite like this girl.


For the rest of my stay in Munich, the other activities I got up to were visiting Dachau concentration camp (wow, that was depressing!) and visiting my old friend Cati who was back from Mexico (where we lived together for a few months) living with her friends in rural Bavaria.  It was such a coincidence that we were in the same place at the same time.  The same thing happened in Mexico.  It's almost like she stalks me or something ;-)


My journey in Germany didn't end there, it actually lasted another two months or so, as you will see in my next few posts (when I finally get them up!), but it is right to end this post here.

Auf Wiedersehen!

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:59

Heading South(er)

My next destination was Grenoble.  I was to visit one of my oldest travel friends; Virginie, who I met in Texas in 2009.
I hitched there from Zurich in about three rides.  During the longest ride, music was playing on the radio and I sat back, satisfied with myself;
"Wow, I understand every word in this song.  I'm doing so well with my languages!"
Then I realised it was in English.

My time in Grenoble was great.  Virginie and her parents spoiled me with attentiveness, laughter, and great food.
One day, her mum took me to the hairdressers whilst Virginie was at work.  Nobody there could speak English, so explaining why I had a massive naturally grown dreadlock was impossible.  They all had a minute each looking at the state of my hair, then finally the hairdresser cut it straight off!
Virginie and I had some good nights out together, had a trip to the mountains, and even went to my first ice-hockey game!

I hitched to the Ashton's farm, after a quick stop in Lyon, and it took forever!  I started super early in the morning and was still going when it was dark.  Standing under a street lamp at a péage on the outskirts of Toulouse... no chance, I thought!  Yet, I was wrong again!  I was picked up by a man in a van heading to a town very close to the Ashton's farm.  He was a theatre and film actor, and most recently was the voice of a fox in a children's film.  Yes, I got to hear all the voices of cartoons that he had ever done, it was hilarious!  It was pitch black outside, so he insisted on taking a de-tour to take me all the way to the front door of the farm.  What a kind person!
Me and Squeeky!


I spent a good few days with my favourite English/French family (and animals).  The biggest shock was that Squeeky (the one day old baby chick we bought and hand-reared) had turned out to be a giant cockerel!





Katie dropped me off, this time with a little more confidence, on the road towards Spain and I was hitching again, this time towards Barcelona.  I went the long way round, apparently, and didn't touch a highway once, only country roads through the French and Spanish Alps.  This made me a little nervous a few times, as I sat on the side of the road in blistering heat with not one single car going past.  Well, sometimes there was one single car... lucky for me each one picked me up!
My longest ride was with a man called Johan.  He filled me with drinks and chocolates.  He shared his own travel stories with me.  We sang at the top of our voices to Spanish songs.  He really was the happiest man in the world.  When he dropped me off just outside Barcelona he gave me fifty euros; I refused with determination, but he wouldn't take no for an answer.  I felt like crying when he left but I can't really explain why.  It wasn't the money, it wasn't the act of giving it to me, it wasn't all the nice moments during the ride... it was his happiness and his desire to help me and make me feel happy.

I arrived in Barcelona a little later and saw an old woman begging on the street.  I gave her the fifty euros. She kissed my hand and pointed to the sky as though I was some angel from heaven, but I did it for no gratification.  That money was given to me by somebody who wanted to help me.  I felt like it would have better use in her hands.  I felt happy about it yes, but not because I felt like I had been kind but because I had passed on that happiness that Johan gave me.
My host in the city was Enric.  He was a great guy with a really good idea of what Couchsurfing is about.  We shared some nice meals and easy conversation and he even let me stay one more night even though he would be away working.
On my last day I joined in with a motorbike group heading to Tibidabo; the mountain with the famous cathedral at the top.  It was very nice, but the most enjoyable part for me was riding up and around!



Valencia was my next stop and I was hosted by a wonderful man named Adolfo.  He was brand new to Couchsurfing and had joined, first and foremost, to practise his English.  He took me out for tapas one night with his friends.  They all tried so hard to speak to me, and with that came the laughter and embarrassment for each others level of English.  One of his friend's was disabled; he had fallen over whilst skiing just a year before and was now paralysed from the neck down.  Adolfo explained how it affected them all so much, that this had happened to their best friend.  I could see they were all very strong people and even stronger friends; it was very inspiring to see.

Whilst strolling around nearby Adolfo's place one day, I found an animal circus being set up.  I looked around at everything; tigers in tiny cages, elephants with removed tusks, bulls and ostriches sharing cages... it was all awful to see.  I went to see the show on it's opening night and was even more horrified, especially when the tigers were frightened into place by the crack of a whip and the elephants were lead into standing on top of each other.

During the interval a man walked around the audience with a baby tiger in his arms.  He held it by it's collar and swung it around each time a new family wanted their photo taken with it.  FLASH! next. FLASH! next.... All I could think was how soul-destroying it would be to be born into the world and all you know is being thrown around by men and a big flash in your face every thirty seconds.
After the show I asked if I could have a job.  I thought it would be a good pursuit to join them and find out how it all really works, even find out what they think about what they are doing.  The answer was no, but it was worth a try!

I had no particular place to go next, but I had a hope that I could make it to the ferry to Morocco in one day.  How wrong was I?!  I hitched all day and into the night, making it only around 450km to some random town.  It's train station wasn't open during the night, so I went to the police station where they offered me a bench in a warm room.  Sounds... strange, but it was all innocent!

I set off early the next morning and every town that I made it to was impossible to hitch back out of.  The highways in Spain are so complicated!  I ran out of patience and decided to walk along the motorway with my sign sticking out.  After three hours of walking, a huge lorry came to a stop in the middle of the road.  I ran as fast as my blisters would allow me.  He was Moroccan and on the way home.  Luck, at last!
His place on the ferry was only for the following morning, but it was my seven month anniversary of this trip that day, so I decided to try to make it to Moroccan soil that night. Hitching on a Sunday night onto the ferry was practically impossible, so I paid the passenger fare.  That is cheating in my books, so it shows how desperately I wanted to get to Morocco for that day!

I made it! That initial idea turned into a plan, then turned into reality!  What a great feeling!

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:59

Decision time: Terrorist risk in Mauritania

We stayed in Dakhla an extra day due to the updating news about the situation currently spreading through the region of north-western Africa.  Terrorists from sects of Al Qaeda have been taking over northern Mali since March 2012, but over the past week have gained ground over the whole country.  The French military were called upon by Mali's government as well as the worried neighbouring nations.  The French responded, were supported morally by the UN and logistically by other European armies, and within one weekend had entered Mali to expel the extremist groups.  This made the terrorists spread out, crossing the borders of Algeria, Mauritania, and Burkina Faso, looking for hide-outs as well as foreigners to kidnap for hostages or to kill.

I contacted my embassy, and as always, I was welcomed with a big, fat waste of time and passed from one person to the next - none with the authority to give advice on where to go or what to do.  Wojtek and I had both spent hours researching, conversing, and worrying about what to do next.  We decided to take the bus to the Mauritanian border and then cross the country to Senegal as fast as we could.  The one bus that was available was at midnight and arrived at 5am.

We had the rest of the day to worry some more.  News came in that Europeans and Japanese had been kidnapped and two British been killed.  The numbers swapped and changed whilst more towns and regions were deemed unsafe.  I started to backtrack on my plan to take the bus.  Then I met a Rastaman outside a surf shop.  He was Moroccan but after his father had travelled the world, his whole family became Rastafarian.  They sat me down, poured me some tea and fed me some homemade cake (no, not that type), and we sang some songs together with my ukulele.  I had a feeling that I met them for a reason.  They made me happy after my stressful day; they were there to remind me of the faith that I have in humanity.

I got on the bus that night.  Maybe it was a stupid decision.  Yes, actually, it was.  It was such a big risk to take and I know that my family and friends would suffer much more than myself if something bad happened to me.  I convinced myself that if I cannot face this fear then how would I ever achieve anything in the future?  I tell everyone I want to make a difference in the world, so giving up when faced with a fear of a possibility is cowardly.

I was frightened for the whole bus journey; I wore my loose traditional shirt and a scarf around my face showing only my eyes.  We arrived at the border and had to wait four hours for it to open.  A man put me in a Berber tent, complete with a small mattress and pillow, where I desperately got some sleep.

The plan was to pay a lot of money for a taxi all the way to the capital Nouakchott where it was apparently safer than the rest of the country.  Upon seeing the mass of cars and trucks lined up at the border at 9am, we decided to ask a few people which way they were going.  One question later we were in a truck which was heading all the way to Senegal.



Mauritania is the real desert.  Rolling sand dunes fill the skyline, the mirage of water touches the road ahead, and herds of camels roam the land.  One thing I never expected was the number of goats; every so often there would be a small group of them, or one alone up-side-down and dead from thirst.  These were special goats though; it seemed they were bred with Dalmatian dogs.  Maybe that it natures way of adding life to the Sahara.





 I kept my hiding-clothes and headscarf on for the whole journey.  Good decision; a pick-up truck filled with wrapped up men with rifles and machine guns passed us in a hurry.  My heart almost jumped out of my mouth.  My disguise fooled them.  Either that or they just didn't feel like kidnapping a British girl that day.







Abdililah, our driver, saw my face for the first time when we stopped along the route for some food.  He knew I was scared, so went to the shop alone to collect some supplies.  He made a big tuna salad that the three of us shared.  We had some time in the sun taking in the scenery, staying on the non-person-filled side of the truck.  The desert smelled sweet, flies touched your skin every second, the sun baked my body under my thick layering of clothes.




We arrived in Nouakchott in the dark evening, where Wojtek left us, for he needed to apply for a visa for Senegal whereas I can enter freely.  The traffic in Nouakchott is the worst I've ever seen.  Two lanes were occupied by four or five invented lines of vehicles.  You want to turn left... it's ok if you are in the right-most lane.  Roundabouts serve no purpose but to confuse people.  A concrete curb was what caught Abdililah out, as he was forced to drive along it, scraping the bottom of the vehicle until grinding to a stop.


We escaped the chaos of the city, took a short break for a hot meal, then arrived in the border town of Rosso to catch some sleep in the truck before crossing to Senegal the following morning.


UPDATE: Hundreds of people were kidnapped and around 40 foreigners were killed in north-western Africa over five days after the French military first entered Mali. They were all innocent victims and did not deserve this. My happy, fortunate story is dedicated to the victims, and their friends and families.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:49

Noticing Poverty

Upon arrival in Guinea's capital city Conakry, my truck friend Jalou [link] took me to his family home.  It wasn't so dismal; they had walls, a couch in their living room, beds in their bedrooms.  We went out to meet a friend of his and passed the local market.  A large, steaming rubbish tip sat beside it whilst the flavourful smoke mixed with the people and produce.  Fishes gathered flies as they lay waiting to be sold on the uncleaned mats on the floor, sharing the same space as fruit and vegetables which were fingered by the owners hands which had been licked clean after eating a plate of rice and sauce prepared in somewhat unsanitary conditions.  Piles of used clothes were thrown around by searching customers landing on the sandy ground or on neighbouring food stalls.  People walked or jumped across stalls in the shoes they had walked across city grounds and garbage in.  There really was no order.  But how can there be order when there is no money to support it?  These were normal people trying to make a living with the little produce they had; they couldn't afford to set up a shop or even make a stall off the ground.  All they have is the mat they brought from home which the kids probably sleep on.  Besides, all this lack of cleanliness would only affect a weak Westerner like me - Africans like this are born with stronger stomachs which become even stronger with age.

I bought a bag of water (drinking water comes in bags here, not bottles) for both me and Jalou as we sat waiting for his friend to finish work.  Some kids close by were staring silently at me.  I said 'Bonjour', waved and smiled, but they continued to stare.  Then it clicked in my head that they were thirsty.  I extended my arm towards them and it took less than one second for them to grab the water bag.  'Merci!' they shouted as they shared it between the three of them.

Later, I saw a woman with sheets of material for sale and, interested in buying some, I asked her how much they cost.  French numbers confuse me sometimes, especially anything past thirty-something... plus this had a thousand at the end (one thousand Guinean Franc is approximately one euro), so I asked her to write it down on a small piece of paper I had.  When she finished I stared down at the shaky scribbles on the paper.  This wasn't just bad handwriting; she actually couldn't write.

Another instance of meeting completely unschooled people was later on in my time in Guinea when I asked for a number of oranges, for example.  Because of my bad French accent, I would hold up three fingers to assure understanding.  More than often I would be met with a confused expression, then given the wrong number of oranges.  It took some thinking, but I finally realised that three fingers means nothing to these people; if you have had no schooling then you can't necessarily count.  How can you count three fingers to know that means three oranges?

Back at Jalou's place, in the evening I was introduced to his family who had just returned from work and school.  They were all very excited to have a white person staying in their house.  One of his younger sisters was disabled; she couldn't speak, she couldn't understand everything her family were saying to her, and she had saliva dribbling down her chin soaking her chest and t-shirt.  Jalou and the rest of the family treated her so well, giving her attention and always hugging and holding her.  They told me that there is a special hospital in Paris which could help her, but they couldn't afford to send her.  She started to dance in front of me with a huge smile on her face.  For the first time on my trip through Africa, tears filled my eyes and the lump in my throat was unbearable.  I knew that they will probably live their entire lives in hope of sending her to Europe, without it ever materialising.

Conakry is for sure the poorest place I've ever been to, the combination of the squalor of the marketplace to the complete lack of education for the poor.  It's so shocking to see that it even puts me, the most stupidly idealistic positive person in the world, in a pessimistic state of mind.  How could this ever change?  It seems impossible.  I began to forget what the West is really like after that.  Look around you... what do you have?  Poverty and the imbalance of wealth in the world is just incredible.

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:48

Hitching the Sahara

I met my travel partner for the next part of my trip; Wojtek from Poland who I met through Couchsurfing.  We met up in Agadir, collected some supplies for our trip, got some extra rest to prepare, and I finally threw out many things from my backpack to minimise the size.

8am Sunday morning we began.  Two minutes later we were stopped in our tracks by a homeless man who wanted Wojtek to buy him a coffee.  After a short bustle, we managed to get away and make it to the road heading south.

A Senegalese man stopped for us, even though he was almost home, and took us to our hitching spot, not before laughing surprisingly at our plans to hitch through the desert as well as giving us the address of his parents and thirty-seven siblings in Senegal.

Minutes later, a man in a very expensive suit took us further on.  We didn't talk much.  He was scary because he was important.  He worked at the airport, possibly the manager, but I'm not sure.  It did feel like he took it all very seriously, as if stopping to pick up foreigners and chauffeur them around was part of his job.

All of this luck meant we had no time to stop to eat our breakfast.  So we found a spot, put our backpacks down, got our food out... BEEEEEP "Where are you going?!"  Luckily, before starvation set in, this guy let us eat in his car.  He was French (and friendly) and owned a spa business.  That's about it really.  Oh, and he told us about the terrorists currently taking over the desert towards Mauritania.  Little side note.

We waited a little longer for the next ride, and somehow ended up in a taxi.  For free.  He took us through a few towns before finding paying passengers and dropping us off.

Then our longest ride of the day came in the form of a Coca Cola truck.  Two men, two seats.  So Wojtek and I sat on the bed in the back.  They gave us fruit, bread, drinks, cigarettes to Wojtek, and in return we hid behind the curtain every time a police checkpoint came up.  That way they didn't have to answer any awkward questions about why they had two Europeans in their truck in the middle of the disputed territory of the Sahara desert.

Whilst Moroccan music blasted from the stereo, the driver danced with such enthusiasm that he didn't always have time to hold the steering wheel. [See video]

The journey continued into the night; the over sized truck drove on the narrow road with only two dim headlights leading the way in the darkest sky in the world.  To add to the darkness was the slow, bass-ridden Moroccan music now playing. [See video]

We arrived at a truck park on the outskirts of a town called Laayoune and after the drivers washed their feet and prayed, we all sat around sharing a dinner of traditional Moroccan tajine.  Wojtek and I set up the tent in a corner where the truck would shield us from the wind, and before sleeping, reflected on the incredible day we just had and were filled with excitable laughter for what tomorrow would bring.

We awoke in the morning to say goodbye to our truck friends then an easy ten metre walk took us to the road we would continue on.  Not entirely sure where we actually were meant that we took a chance on a man who said he could take us to a better spot.  He gave Wojtek a cigarette and had one himself, a beer each was next, then a block of hashish was offered.  It finally clicked that he was stupidly drunk when we arrived in the next town;
"I take you to beach. Beach is here."
We explained that we had no time and needed to go south, not to the beach, so naturally he drove us into a port filled with shipping material and armed guards.  A few handshakes and salutes explained to us that he was some type of official; a high ranking one who was obviously above the rules of drink- and drug-driving.  After a few hours of weirdness, we finally managed to convince him to drop us at the side of the road to look for our next ride.

The lack of traffic meant we waited for around an hour in the blistering wind; our eyes, ears, noses, mouths, hair, pockets, and shoes were dotted with sand that would stay with us for the rest of the day.  A car eventually stopped, driving it was a man dressed in traditional desert clothing, a full headscarf, and equipped with a long straggling beard.  With only his local Berber language to go by, I somehow managed to communicate that we were hitchhikers and where we wanted to go.  Once inside the car, our stereotypes got the better of us;
"We've been kidnapped, definitely" we thought.
He stopped in the next town and picked up a man who had lots of bicycles, then bought us a sandwich each.
"This is just too strange.  Has he kidnapped us or what?"
The police checkpoints put us straight.  Giving his identification and explaining everything to them for us, we knew that we had not in fact been kidnapped, but instead hit the jackpot with the kindest taxi driver the Sahara has to offer. [See video]

When we reached Dakhla, 540km later, he dropped off the other four men he had picked up (seven people to a four seater car) then insisted on finding a hotel for us.  They were all full, except the one nobody wanted to stay in.  We guessed that the bedsheets were changed every ten customers, and we were probably the fifth or sixth this round.  The following morning we were awoken by the gruesome sound of a man in the neighbouring bathroom snorting and spitting the snot which he had recently gathered from his own journey through the desert.  He left it all there for us to see when we used the bathroom later.



We spent the rest of the day getting informed and incredibly worried about the current situation of the terrorists who were spreading from Mali to neighbouring countries, including Mauritania - where we were heading to the next day...

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 20, 2013 16:17

April 19, 2013

kimmieslife

How di body?!

[Click here to view my full album of photos for Sierra Leone]

"Hey! How di body?"
"Di body good man!"
I learnt these phrases in Krio, Sierra Leone's half English language spoken by 97% of the population, pretty quickly. In fact, my body was getting much better, I was recovering from the malaria at a surprising rate. Wojtek and I made it to Freetown only a few days after my bout in hospital.

We took a shared taxi there; the first time I had used public transportation for a long journey so far on my African trip. Sharing really means sharing when it comes to these taxis. Three people in the boot filled with make-shift seats, four people squashed in the middle section, and two people on the passenger seat up front, one of them sharing the drivers leg-room. The road from Conakry was terrible, but after the border and beyond our spirits were lifted by the chaotic atmosphere created by the people we encountered along the way.

"Maa, I wana chick. Gimme a chick. Yah tha one! Yah give it here!"
A chicken was passed behind us through the window, squawking in Wojtek's ear, flapping it's wings frantically. The woman in the back needed to check out the chicken before she decided on a price to pay.
"Yah ok, gimme two!"
They were tied onto the top of the car.

"I said I wan banan! Woman a ya listenin to me? Ahh dis woman, she no listen! I wan six banan!"

"Eyy white man, you wana banan? Have a banan! Ya wan water?"

"Eyy white woman, lemme give ya a mango and ya be ma friend?"

This is what happened every time the car stopped; sellers throwing and offering goods through the window, men and women in the car asking and squabbling over prices.

Wojtek and I had fallen in love with Sierra Leone in less than an hour.

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We had a Couchsurfing host organised in Freetown; I knew it would be a nice rest from the basic living conditions I had been used to for the past few months. Hamid was his name, I could probably tell you right now that this man is the future president of the country. His one hundred housemates, all of which gave us all the attention we desired, ranged from bankers to economists to social workers to educated unemployed.





We stayed in Freetown for around a week, but I honestly can't come up with many specific stories about our time there. Mostly, everything was just funny:

We got shouted at for not negotiating the entrance price for the national museum... by the woman who manages it.

The man in the tea shop never understanding our order of bread and egg; the only option available. Our English accents obviously weren't... clear enough?

"Hey white man, buy me a football an we can play together here", a child called out to Wojtek one day, pointing towards a flooded football pitch.



We also made a day trip to the famous Number 2 Beach, were disappointed by the amount of tourists, but astounded by the beauty. Lush, forested hills rose up around the pale white sanded beach and reflected in the clear, still water enclosed by a rocky edge.

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Wojtek with Eugene the Uke

We hitched 400km to Kenema, managed to get ridiculously sunburned in the back of a pick-up truck, and was then offered a place to stay in the town by a nice man named Abdul. We stayed with him together for two nights, before Wojtek left to continue more quickly than me towards Liberia.



Whilst in Kenema, Abdul took me to meet his friend who owned a diamond business, who then took me to see a small-scale diamond mine where around ten men were working manually for two months straight on a wage of four euros for a ten hour day. They waved and posed with their spades whilst I took photos.
The owner of this business used to work just like them, but alone and illegally. He found a 15 carat diamond - a guaranteed one million dollars in his pocket. From that he created a legal mining business and is now richer than rich.

One morning, on my daily walk through the towns market chatting to random people, there was a huge commotion; people pointing and shouting and laughing. I was told there was a witch in town. Apparently a woman had made another woman pregnant. The pregnant woman's husband reported the witch to the local authorities. Nobody questioned it; it was true. I tried telling them about the old history of witches in Britain, and that there is always an explanation for strange things going on.
"No! This is AFRICA!" I was told.

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I hitched alone through the tiny towns and villages of Eastern Sierra Leone, my last ride being stuffed in between the driver and the front passenger. Only slightly uncomfortable! On the up side, I was invited to a celebration they were attending in the small town of Potoru; it was a kind of wake for the death of a senior lady of the family. Hundreds of people gathered in the dark night, drums were played whilst the senior family members danced this traditional ritual in a possessed-like way around a fire, people sang loudly to the absent music, and I sat there in awe of what I was witnessing. I didn't get any pictures, it was too real and deeply spiritual to think about that.

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I left the following morning, taking a bike then a boat to Tiwai Island. This place is home to one of the highest concentration and diversity of primates in the world, as well as 135 bird species, 700 plant species, and the rare pygmy hippo. The eight communities which surround the island take care of everything there. They protect the island from mining and poaching, they charge tourists for visiting the island and for guided tours, and then use the money gained to improve the facilities as well as for schools and infrastructure for the local villages. Check out the website for more information [click here]

Termite mound
Spider bigger than my hand


I took a nature tour, and saw countless monkeys swinging in the trees, so many huge spiders sat lazily in their webs, thousands of gigantic termite mounds bigger than myself, and trees with roots which I wasn't tall enough to step over. This island really is a jungle!

Spot the monkey!
I spent the night on the island, then started feeling ill again. By the morning I was a mess. I knew it was the malaria again. Back in Potoru I visited the health care centre where they gave me medication and told me it was free. I took refuge in the Tiwai Island tourism office for a few days but the medication just wasn't working. It must have been free because it was donated, and it must have been donated because it was old. The thing about malaria is that you lose all your ability to think straight and make decisions. This time I didn't have Wojtek with me. I slept for two days straight and I wasn't getting any better. Somehow, luckily, I made the decision to get to the closest city, where I could get up-to-date medication. That was around 200km of undriveable road away...
The whole journey I had a new answer:
"How di body?"
"Ahhh, di body no good!"

by Vagabond Kimmie (noreply@blogger.com) at April 19, 2013 02:19

April 18, 2013

Guaka!

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

guaka: #hitchhiking to #Berlin tomorrow morning! Looking for 1 or 2 #bicycles to #borrow for some days #alsobehappytoseeyou

by Kasper Souren at April 18, 2013 21:11